Hi,
Before opening the pump (if necessary) you can do a simple test.
But before testing, make sure to flush it with petrol mixed with a few drops of oil (preferably two stroke oil when you have it, otherwise engine oil) first. When the pump doesn't turn smooth after cleaning, flushing and lubricating, it is wise to open it op.
When it runs smooth, my advise should be doing a test to see if the pump does what it supposed to do.
The pump delivers a certain volume of oil against a pressure (caused by the resistance of the small oil passages).
For testing it, you have to submerge the pump in an (clean) oil bath (1.5 to 2 inches deep and the same oil you will use in the engine), and drive the sprocket with a drill or something. You turn it the right direction when the oil flows out the hole which leads in the case to the oil gallery.
Find yourself a tube which fits in the hole where the oil flows out, an you're almost done.
I will take some pictures to clear things up,
jensen
Noob, just getting started on a 67 CL77
I took your advice and before taking it apart ( I don't have the gasket) I tested it. I found a tube that fit the hole but I couldn't hold the thing and get my drill to rotate the gear at the same time so I just spun the gear by hand and very easily got the tube to fill with liquid. I got about an inch to an inch and a half per hand spin.
Should I assume that the pump is O.K.? Still wondering about the sticky white / grey clay looking stuff that was all over the bottom of the pump plate? If smelled strongly of gasoline. Thanks again, Joel
Hi,
Sticky white stuff is a combination of oil, maybe fuel, but mostly water. You wrote that the engine was stuck, and in the pictures of the bore there was a lot of oxidation. These pistons must had blow-by, looking at the condition of the bore, so it's logical the oil is contaminated with fuel and an oil / water emulsion. If the transmission is good, and the crank too, don't open the crankcase, just flush it. It is wise to remove the clutch cover and oil filter and clean everything. (clean with petrol mixed with a little two stroke oil, don't clean with carb cleaner). After flushing with petrol / oil, clean with cheap oil. If the engine is clean, cover it as long as you are not working on it. Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
Hmm, I may have gotten a little over excited. I pulled the clutch plates and basket. Primary chain and tensioner, the shifter arm thingy, and the stator from the other side.
But I'm really not sure if the transmision works. I know it goes into neutral and into 1st (I think it also goes into 2nd) but the engine was stuck and I just put in into 1st and neutral trying to rock the pistons free. For whatever reason (read: I'm an idiot) I didn't think to check whether or not it went into any other gears... Please Advise!?!?!? oh and thanks for clearing up the sticky white / grey issue for me. Joel Not to mention that you are in Florida, the land where just about everything made from aluminum dissolves over time. regards, Rob
Any advice on whether or not I should separate the cases? Just to reiterate where I'm at;
a) I don't know if the tranny works b) I have the clutch basket, shifter arm, primary chain tensioner and stator off. c) I think that I'm already this far along, so why stop here d) even if it doesn't need it yet, as long as I'm there and it could use fixxing soon... e) won't the engine casings be easier to clean.. f) I'm really curious... So, is there any reason NOT to take it apart at this point? If there's really a reason why I shouldn't split the cases I'd truly like to know.... As always, Thanks, Joel
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