that's exactly what I figured when I pulled them outta the parts cleaner. I was going to have Loud Mouse do my valves and bore / hone my cylinders, but he said it would be a couple months and I'm not sure I want to wait that long. And I really want to learn how to do this stuff anyway.
So I built a tool and took apart my valves. Cleaned them up, spun them around in valve lapping compound. Now they sit tight but the stems are kinda rusty so I think I'm going to replace them anyway. The point is that I'm learning.
And for teaching me, I thank you guys,
Joel
Noob, just getting started on a 67 CL77
Joel, see if you can find a local machine shop to do the valve , and bore job for you. Tim at Classic Honda restoration sells new liners, and standard piston kits, another good way to go. Liners are really easy to swap out!
davomoto
64 CB77 63-7 CB77 Cafe' 67 CL77 64 CL72 66 CL77 big bore flat tracker Many others!
I found a machine shop that said they would do a .5 over bore for $40 per cylinder. That sounds pretty good to me. It there a reason why I wouldn't want to do an overbore? Also, is there a reason why I would want to do my own valves? I mean getting them off and back on was a pain but lapping them was pretty easy...
Joel
Hi,
As long as the stem diameter is within specification, it doesn't matter if the stems are a (bit) rusty, it does use a little bit more oil, but that ain't bad. Don't worry about damaging your valve stem seals, these bikes don't have them. To maintain a good compression with modern fuels, the valves should be angled exactly 45 degrees were it touches the valve seat. Because the modern fuels don't contain lead, make sure that there is around 1 mm area where the valve touches the valve seat. A little bit of lapping the valve seat and valve is just a temporally solution. Dave is right, for some jobs just find someone who can do it for you. Remember, fixing an engine right doesn't mean that you have to do it yourself all the way. You have to coordinate and make sure to find the right people for the specialized jobs. As long as you can bore and hone, I personally wouldn't change the liners. As long as the liners are secured in the cylinder, I wouldn't touch them. Second thing is that the bore should be made fit to the piston. A good machinist measures the piston, and then bore and hone the cylinder to the specifications of the piston. Never change the pistons from place, even if they look the same. The idea of chancing the liners for STD liners, will save you $$ for a re bore and honing, and use some standard pistons. But then then you have to find a "pair" to fit. But maybe I'm to precise in these decisions. Again, disamble the oil pump, check it, and if necessary rebuild it, before you start to rebuild the engine. Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
the Machine shop that I found said he needed the pistons before he would bore the cylinders.
So I guess the next thing I'm doing is checking the oil pump. What should I be looking for? I'll take more pictures, but that might be a few days. I'll take some pictures of the valves too. See what you guys think. Joel
I just took off the oil pump. From the outside the thing looks almost brand new. Granted, this is my first time looking at an oil pump.
Along the base of the pump, there was a think build up of something that looked like a white / grey clay and smelled of gasoline. Is that normal? I wiped the stuff off and dropped the whole thing in a bucket of parts cleaner. I'll take it out tomorrow, take it apart and take some pictures. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for? Thanks Guys, Joel
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
