Noob, just getting started on a 67 CL77

[Hotshoe]

I'm making the same decisions as you so this is a good thread to help me focus on the now imminent rebuild of my '67 CL77.
One thing I noticed in the Classic Honda site that I think I'll include are the ignition advancer springs.
Reason being the timing on my bike seemed to be a little vague and I was having problems tuning out a top end flat spot that could be related to the camshaft mounted timing advancer.
We used to weld the advancer locked full advance on our racers to take that completely out of the equation but that was then and this is now.
Those with more experience than me may have an opinion on this but they're cheap so why not?
Good luck with your rebuild.

[e3steve]

.......
One thing I noticed in the Classic Honda site that I think I'll include are the ignition advancer springs.
Those with more experience than me may have an opinion on this but they're cheap so why not?
Good luck with your rebuild.

Absolutely a 100% good call! Unless you intend going the E/E upgrade (I haven't).

[WrenchRust]

Here are a few pictures of my pistons. I just wiped them down with paper towels. Notice the rings?? I don't think the Pistons look bad. Need a little cleanning maybe.







How do they look to you guys?

[WrenchRust]

just wiped out the cylinder sleeves. I looked all day for a bore gauge but ended up with a digital caliper.

there is a lot of staining on the sleeves. A couple spots of vertical ware marks (shinny lines that didn't look like scratches) and one tiny little scratch groove. Let deep then a human hair and about 2mm long.

the caliper readings were all pretty close. About 59.89 all the way around on both cylinders and on both ends of each cylinder, although I did get a couple measurements that were 59.92.

does anyone need pictures? If so, of anything in particular? Any word on the pictures of the pistons?

[jensen]

Hi,

It's not easy to say something about the state of the pistons. The pictures are not sharp and the most important era isn't pictured. The era's 90 degrees to the piston pins are the era's to look at (piston skirts). Clean the pistons with petrol or carb cleaner. Measure the piston skirt diameter and compare this with the measurements you made on the bore, and calculate the play. The play should be between 0.01 mm to 0.04 mm. Then look at the pattern of the hone structure in the cylinder bores. If the original hone structure is gone (45 degree cross lines) then re-bore and hone to spec, preferably to the next piston size. The piston rings should have no deep scratches.

A caliper is not the tool to measure anything below 0.05 mm, even when it has a screen that says 59.98. Measuring below 0.05 mm is done with a micrometer. The best way to get some measurements is go to a shop and ask someone to do it for you (with a bore micrometer). They do it mostly for free,

Jensen

[WrenchRust]

thanks Jensen,

sorry about the picture quality. I'll find my digital camera for future pictures. There are no 45 degree marks anywhere that I can see so I think I'm going to send the whole top end to loud mouse to be re-done. While the parts are away, I'll pull the clutch and split the cases...

so until then,

Joel

[jensen]

Hi,

I like to see some pictures of the bore wall. Ed moore (Loud Mouse) does engine work indeed, and according to others he does the job well, although I don't have personal experience with his work.

Jensen