1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I goI've been having some trouble with my forks. They fell victim to over tightening of the bolt that attaches the fender. I don't know if this was something I did, or already existed, but it sure is a pain.
I was able to cure the problem of the metal bulging in on one fork lower by filing down the indentation and using an exhaust expander to stretch the fork lower ever so slightly. Then lube everything up and reinstall in a screwing fashion. Problem is the other fork still has the lower stuck on (which is how I discovered the -unknown at the time - issue). I can not get them apart for the life of me. I'm thinking it's gonna take two car bumpers and a tag-a-long to pull them apart. I suspect one of the metal rings inside was knocked loose and has now jammed in between the two pieces. Very eager to move on. So let this be a cautionary tale, if the fork lowers don't come off easily or slide back on like so, don't force em... you've got an issue. I'm all ears if anyone has any other ideas on how to get the fork apart. Banging it just won't do.
Last edited by Spargett on Wed Apr 07, 2010 1:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ Got the rear wheel all done. There were some white water spots that had corroded(?) onto the polished hub. I had to sand them down and re-polish without taking the entire wheel apart and relacing. It was tricky holding the whole thing up the very edge of a converted 6" bench grinder. Lots of awkward angles, and you learn how strong your arms really are after a few minutes in that position.
Thinking of trying out Zoopseal to avoid the same problem. Reassembled with cadmium plated hardware and a custom made aluminum 28t rear from Sprocket Specialists. Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/
tractor jack!I had a similar problem as you may recall...some variation of my shade-tree, back porch solution may work for you...don't squeeze too hard...might help to stick the axle through bottom hole in fork tube and pull up against that...
hopefully you'll find as I did that the tight spot is above the range of action of the piston and doesn't affect things once you've got it reassembled. I really admire your patience and perserverence...good luck! Lee '62 CB77. "It's a rider."
Scott,
In my experience the problem is usually a fender mounting bolt that's slightly too long. As it's tightened, it bottoms in the lug and elaves a raised dimple/bulge on the inner sliding surface. You can use the lower as a slide hammer and you will have an interesting groove in the lower bush and possible the piston as well. I have a pile of CB160 sliders like that. I can usually use a long fine round file to file off the bump. It takes time and all the filings must be cleaned out afterward, but it can be done. Thinking out loud here, maybe a good machinist could chuck it up and run a small boring tool down there to do a clean up. Teazer,
Yup, that appeared to be the exact issue. The lowers were certainly misshapen a bit beyond the simple inner bulge. Lots of filing and use of an exhaust expander cured it enough to be wiggled back on with a bit of lubrication and pressured turning. Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ Turns out using ratcheted tie downs in a pulley system weren't strong enough to pull the jammed fork apart. In the end, it was a vice, a friend helping hold it down, and a whole lot of muscle, twisting, and sweat to free the demon.
A night of sanding, filing and grinding with a little help from an exhaust expander put it all back in business. Never a dull moment Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ On the fast path to tuning carbs...
Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/
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