how can i get rid of the light switch?

deez · Post by **deez** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:38 pm

steve i will run that test this coming weekend, i was busy riding all day and night today! its been way too long. its cool to ride it this way right? and thanks again for all the help. ill keep you posted
-cheers
-deez

deez · Post by **deez** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:35 pm

steve,
so i finally got back to wrenching on this thing in between riding it everyday. got some figures for you.
so with the yellow and pink together:

at idle 12.1 to 12.2
with headlight on 10.8 to 10.9

revving it at i would say around 5 to 6rpm 15.'s
with headlight on it doesnt get above 13's

ill hook up tach to get more accurate readings later today or tomorrow.

so im concerned about riding it without the headlight on during the day if its getting
to the 15's, will this cook the battery?

thanks again
-cheers
-deez

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:03 pm

Hmmmm, I'd say so. 14.1 max, with a gel battery / 13.8 with a flooded lead-acid. And you're only sporting a tiddler of a battery on yours for voltage stabilisation. Look, wire in a small, single pole 5-Amp relay; it's switching AC, so 5A should suffice:

Contacts - pink & yellow
Coil - 1: ground, 2: coupled to the brown that feeds the dimmer switch centre contact

That way, when you switch on the lights the relay will pull in and link the pk & y to boost the charge. Let me know if you want a diagram posted.

Rgds

deez · Post by **deez** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:55 am

sounds good steve. if its not too much trouble i do need a diagram and a link to the relay you are talking about would be a huge help. thanks again steve for all your help.
-cheers
-deez

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 3:40 am

Deez, PM me your full postal address -- I'll send you a suitable relay & terminals. Radio Shack show an automotive relay with 30A contacts, but I'm guessing that your CR now has a small headlamp bucket, so space will be an issue.

Diagram shows a 'NC' contact, which I've greyed out; you won't need it, but it should be fitted with an insulated terminal.

Let me know if you need anything clarifying at all; I've kept it simple but, obviously, I don't know at what level your understanding of my terminology is.

I'm here for assistance.

eyhonda · Post by **eyhonda** » Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:04 am

When the additional coils are switched in (pink wire), I think the dynamo will increase the magnetic load to the crank. Basically, the motor will have to work a little harder. My question is can the extra charging coils be turned on all the time, regardless if the lights were on? If the lights were off and the extra charging voltage was off, will that condition overcharge the battery?

eyhonda · Post by **eyhonda** » Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:24 am

I plan to rewire, reroute and simplify my wiring as well. But for the headlight switch, I plan the opposite. I will bypass the left hand hi/lo switch and use the headlamp bucket switch. The handlebar switch is pretty wimpy but the headlamp switch seems to be a more heavy duty, high current type switch. I will wire the headlamp directly to the switch, wire the tail light directly to ignition (always on during run) and short the extra charging circuit (pink wire). From each handlebar switch, there will be only one wire (horn and starter). Into the headlamp, I'll reduce it by 5 wires (3 from the left hb switch and the pink/yellow wires). I'll plan on updating and relocate the rectifier to the Oregan part. I'll relocate the battery, rectifier and solenoid to under the cafe seat.