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how can i get rid of the light switch?

Charging System, Wiring, Lighting
e3steve
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Post by e3steve » Sat Aug 15, 2009 3:10 pm

Well, I'd say that, as a cafe racer, the power requirement is minimal; so just choose a battery with the dimensions that suit your requirements. As stated previously, the minimum aim should probably be a 1.3Ah, but go for the highest capacity that suits your installation location on the bike.

deez
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Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:18 pm
Location: san francisco

Post by deez » Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:06 am

so i wired up everything as stated in previous posts and thought everything was working properly until test driving the bike. i took the bike out and the minute i got on the throttle it blew the headlight i then switched to the high beam and that blew out also once on the throttle (35w halogen). another crazy thing is the bike does not run right at higher rpm's it bogs out. i then just disconnected the pink wire from the yellow wire and the bike runs like a charm through all ranges of rpm's. so i was wondering what the pink wire provides and does it have to be connected to anything? i also just got one of those powersonic batteries and will try to hook that up this weekend to fix the lighting problem.
thanks for any info
-cheers

e3steve
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Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:35 am

Connecting the pink to the yellow adds 50% of charging current to the AC (pre-rectifier) supply. It was originally attached to a separate pair of contacts on the light switch; those contacts are 'made' when the headlight is selected. If you run with the light on all the time then you will need the pink and yellow joined but, for now, leave the pink & yellow separated and insulated. Add the battery and check the voltage with a meter, lights on and motor at about 4000rpm. Come back with the reading.

I suspect that your computer capacitor is not stabilising the voltage sufficiently; stop using it! DO NOT run the motor with no stablisation -- that could damage the rectifier, ignition system and cause lamps to blow out(!).

deez
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Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:18 pm
Location: san francisco

Post by deez » Sun Aug 30, 2009 12:59 am

so i took all of your advice steve and wired up the powersonic ps-1230 12v 3.4AH battery. runs great and the lights work great as well! the tail light is nice and steady along with the 35w halogen headlight.
no more blowing bulbs! i still have not hooked up the pink wire coming from the dynamo. still need to figure out how to hook up the tach, will post update on that along with readings. i did take one reading today without a tach though so dont know how many rpm's i was exactly at but i revved her up and the reading got to 13 will post tomorrow. thanks again for all the help
-cheers
-deez

e3steve
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Post by e3steve » Sun Aug 30, 2009 5:19 am

Yo deez, good-to-go so far then? OK. connect the pink & yellow together and check the voltage at the battery terminals again. The battery will accept up to 14.1V (ideal charging voltage for a gel or AGM -- 13.8V for an SLA [Sealed Lead-Acid] flooded type) with about a 1-Amp replenishment rate (charge rate minus consumption). These figures should be achievable with all lights connected and at about 4000rpm (trust your ears to get about 50% rev range).

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davomoto
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Post by davomoto » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:18 am

Connect them together at the headlight, not at the stator.

davomoto

e3steve
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Post by e3steve » Sun Aug 30, 2009 2:28 pm

Makes no difference, Davo me ol' chum. As long as the pink gets added to the yellow and the yellow remains connected to the rectifier, then the pink & yellow into the headlamp can be removed completely.

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