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1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

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Spargett
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Post by Spargett » Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:30 am

I've got one last bit of dilemma. I let a batch of MEK soak for about a week in tank to get what was left of just a few bits of the old Kreem hanging on, but most importantly... flush out the Kreem that had drained into the reserve line on the tank and re-hardened.

To my dismay after doing everything I could, it still hadn't penetrated. I picked out what I could with a number of different tools, but it appears there's some really tough stuff dead in the middle, I assume where the kink is.

The tank is in great condition otherwise. It's got fresh powder coat (I know, I know), no dings, and just a little rust at the bottom. I was ready to soak with some muriatic acid before lining it with POR-15 and throwing her back on before I found this out tonight.

What are some of my options for this?

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e3steve
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Sticking throttle pipe

Post by e3steve » Tue Aug 25, 2009 3:59 am

Scott,
  • • Check for and remove any burr around the outer circumference on the handlebar end
    • Clean / de-burr / de-crud the inside of the throttle pipe with a half-round file
    • Remove the friction component completely from inside the lower cave of the throttle housing; reassemble and try again
The throttle cave will need some kind of lube, as alloy will degrade and erode without it -- smear a film of grease inside the cave and around the pipe flange. I favour electrical silicon grease because it doesn't melt and seep in the heat of the sun. I'm not sure if the inside of the pipe should be dry or lubed as well; mine is, at present, and performs perfectly, snapping back upon release. There is no logical reason why the pipe-to-'bar interface should be lubed though.

Spargett
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Post by Spargett » Tue Aug 25, 2009 4:38 am

Thanks for the tips as always Steve. I'll go through it tomorrow evening and report back.

jensen
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Post by jensen » Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:22 am

Hi,

- make sure that the handlebar end doesn't touch in the inside of the throttle
- check the valvesprings in the carbs, maybe these got weak after all those years.
- threre's no need for lubricating the throttle, if you think there is need for it, use a little oil to lubricate


jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)

LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:56 am

JENSEN may have it.
Slide the aluminum parts out 1/8 inch as it it possible the rubber grip end is contacting the end of the bar. ........lm

jensen wrote:Hi,

- <<<make sure that the handlebar end doesn't touch in the inside of the throttle>>>>>>>>
- check the valvesprings in the carbs, maybe these got weak after all those years.
- threre's no need for lubricating the throttle, if you think there is need for it, use a little oil to lubricate


jensen

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davomoto
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Post by davomoto » Tue Aug 25, 2009 9:21 am

Scott, I actuall plug the cross over line on both sides. that way, when the tank needs to be removed, you dont have to completely drain the tank. yes, you will lose a bit of distance on reserve, lean the bike over to slosh fuel onto petcock side in an emergency. Otherwise you can try a coat hanger, or other wire to try to push blockage out. Motionn Pro sells a quick disconnect line that could be used on crossover, that stops the fuel flow when diconnected. Be sure to get the one that stops flow on both sides, around $50. Another vote for grip contacting the end of the bar.

davomoto

jensen
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Post by jensen » Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:37 am

Hi,

I was wondering if you installed a new rubber hose around the throttle (I don't know the correct translation in english). If you did, maybe it's fitted to far to the aluminium parts on the plastic innerpart of the throttle. Spacing between rubber part and aluminium should be enough. I can't see it on the picture if that's the case.

Jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)

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