help with timing chain and valve adjustment ??
help with timing chain and valve adjustment ??just bought a 64 305 dream and want to adjust the timing chain and valves before I fire it up for the first time in a long long time, is there anywhere here on the net that gives instructions how to do this?? I don't have the books and dont want to wait to get them, I am so jazzed on getting this bike running!! any help would be greatly appreciated !! Thanx
If it hasn't been run in a long time, those are about the last things I would be concerned with, since they do not go out of adjustment when not running. I'd concentrate instead on changing the plugs, cleaning the points, thoroughly cleaning the inside of the fuel tank, and disassembling and cleaning the petcock and carb. Change the oil and then turn the engine over about 100 revolutions (with the plugs out) to move some fresh oil thru the engine. Add fresh fuel and see if it starts. After it's been run for a while, you can go back to setting the timing, valve adjustment, etc. --Randall
Cool Randall, Thanx, the plugs are new, oil is fresh, points are clean, gastank is unbelievably spotless inside, pullin the carb apart tonight, figured that when the thing was parked, it most likely needed a tune up and valve adjustment, I am hoping (and Dreaming, no pun intended) to have one of those 1st or 2nd kick experiences (after pumping oil thru the engine) that you see on youtube when the bike has been sitting for a long time, the guy held the bike for me for a few weeks so I could get the cash together, brought it home a couple nights ago and am so excited, cant wait to hear it run, need to take the throttle apart and clean it so the thing will be smoothe again too. Dave
Dave,
The valve adustment is done with the engine cold. With the rotor at the T mark, the valves on one side will both be free. Check their clearance to be 0.004". Then turn the crank forward 360 degrees and check the valves on the other side. To adjust the camchain, loosen the nut/bolt that secures the adjuster at the rear of the cylinder. While turning the engine over (plugs out), place your finger on the end of the adjuster shaft and you should feel a slight in and out movement. If not, the adjuster may be frozen in place and needs to be freed by squirting a little WD40 onto the shaft and pushing/pulling on it, or sometimes must be disassembled. Once you know it is operating freely under spring pressure, set the pistons to bottom dead center and tighten the adjuster bolt/nut. Normally you do not need to put pressure on the shaft prior to tightening the bolt, just let the spring do the work. --Randall
I did all that stuff then pulled the plug wires off and pushed the electric start button and cranked her over a bunch of times then plugged in the plug wires and kicked her over, she fired on the 3rd kick and no smoke!! she purrs like a kitten!! actually ...no baffles yet so more of a tiger than a kitten!! I have been ridin'er fer about a month now and really dig'er, cleaned and regreased the throttle, put on some sweet badges, tires and tubes are on the way for more piece of mind, got tired of being afraid of the 30 year old tires that are on there now, (still ridin' though) I will be replacing the brakes and inspecting the bearings while I am at it!! I appreciate all your help!! Thanx, Dave
Congratulations, Dave. Brake shoes rarely need replacing in my experience unless the mileage is very high. But you can do an adjustment. On the front wheel, there are adjustments that begin with the brake linkage on the brake plate and continue with the brake cable mounting points both on the wheel and the handlebar control lever. It's important to get the sequence correct, so follow the procedure in the service manual. Check first that the dots on the two links on the brake plate are correctly aligned with the dots on the ends of the brake shoe cams. --Randall
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