1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

[LOUD MOUSE]

It seems that some folks have problems with the "O" rings at the L/R corners leaking. I recommend ya make sure ya have the correct length knock pins installed and ya may want to install a "O" ring of the same inside diameter but a little thicker and if still worried a SMALL AMOUNT of non-hardening RTV at those locations. (no sealant at any other area other than the main cases) ...........................lm

I use that set with no problems. .................lm

Thanks Ed, that's encouraging info. I have 3 full gaskets sets ~ 2 from Sirius (Canada) and a Japanese 'Noboru'. I've read some pretty negative posts surrounding AM head gaskets. I intend using the Japanese set, being a guinea-pig for the forum. I've decided to postpone my full resto for this year, wishing to get the powertrain absolutely right before moving on to the paintwork next winter.

If I get anything in the motor or 'box that's not 100%, that means dropping it out again and risking cosmetic damage; so I'll do the internals first, then look at painting fully, starting in the Autumn. I have many spare cycle parts, so I'll fit the new fenders and prep the replacement fork shrouds, headlight bucket & tank ready for a swap-out as-and-when.

So, this year, it's rebore, pistons, gas-flow the head, replace valves, springs & guides, little ends with -305 pins, camchain, tensioner & idler, gearbox bearings & cotters, seals, clutch and primary chain / tensioner if necessary.

Having moved apartment, just after Xmas, I've had other fish to fry before my precious CB gets full attention.

[e3steve]

Thanks Ed. More than happy to follow your advice, as always.

[Spargett]

So I'm cleaning off the gaskets from all of the cylinder heads right now. I got to the top cover tonight and noticed a very fine texture in the aluminum. I got most of the old gasket off with the razor, but I'm worried any sort of scrubbing might remove the unique and intention texturing here. Are my concerns valid? What sort of repercussions would come if just a smooth surface was left here?

(click the photo to view full size)

[Spargett]

Sorry to bother you guys, but I was wondering if I could trouble you for a good valve tool (set?). I'm looking to get the valves out and lap them myself. A skill I'd love to have of my own. I'm pretty sure all I need to remove them is the spring compressor. I found this valve lapping tool, but I still need something to compress the spring that will work for the 305's. Thank you in advance, and I apologize if this seems like an obvious issue. The internet isn't very helpful in it's tremendous variety of options.

I found this great "how-to" video on lapping your own valves.

[LOUD MOUSE]

Don't worry about the top cover. It's OK.
I recommend ya install spark plugs in the head and place the head on it's top.
Fill with lacquer thinner and look into the intake/exhaust ports for any thinner that may pass the valve seats.
If ya see some ya can turn the valve (valves have slots in them for a screwdriver to fit) and if the leak stops ya are good to go.
A pic of the combustion chamber would be nice. ...............lm

Sorry to bother you guys, but I was wondering if I could trouble you for a good valve tool (set?). I'm looking to get the valves out and lap them myself. A skill I'd love to have of my own. I'm pretty sure all I need to remove them is the spring compressor. I found this valve lapping tool, but I still need something to compress the spring that will work for the 305's. Thank you in advance, and I apologize if this seems like an obvious issue. The internet isn't very helpful in it's tremendous variety of options.

I found this great "how-to" video on lapping your own valves.

[Spargett]

Thanks LOUD MOUSE. I'll certainly do that. *photos as well* So you're saying if there's no leaks, then there's no need to lap the valves?

Don't worry about the top cover. It's OK.
I recommend ya install spark plugs in the head and place the head on it's top.
Fill with lacquer thinner and look into the intake/exhaust ports for any thinner that may pass the valve seats.
If ya see some ya can turn the valve (valves have slots in them for a screwdriver to fit) and if the leak stops ya are good to go.
A pic of the combustion chamber would be nice. ...............lm

Sorry to bother you guys, but I was wondering if I could trouble you for a good valve tool (set?). I'm looking to get the valves out and lap them myself. A skill I'd love to have of my own. I'm pretty sure all I need to remove them is the spring compressor. I found this valve lapping tool, but I still need something to compress the spring that will work for the 305's. Thank you in advance, and I apologize if this seems like an obvious issue. The internet isn't very helpful in it's tremendous variety of options.

I found this great "how-to" video on lapping your own valves.

[LOUD MOUSE]

Yep!. .............lm

Thanks LOUD MOUSE. I'll certainly do that. *photos as well* So you're saying if there's no leaks, then there's no need to lap the valves?

Don't worry about the top cover. It's OK.
I recommend ya install spark plugs in the head and place the head on it's top.
Fill with lacquer thinner and look into the intake/exhaust ports for any thinner that may pass the valve seats.
If ya see some ya can turn the valve (valves have slots in them for a screwdriver to fit) and if the leak stops ya are good to go.
A pic of the combustion chamber would be nice. ...............lm

Sorry to bother you guys, but I was wondering if I could trouble you for a good valve tool (set?). I'm looking to get the valves out and lap them myself. A skill I'd love to have of my own. I'm pretty sure all I need to remove them is the spring compressor. I found this valve lapping tool, but I still need something to compress the spring that will work for the 305's. Thank you in advance, and I apologize if this seems like an obvious issue. The internet isn't very helpful in it's tremendous variety of options.

I found this great "how-to" video on lapping your own valves.