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how can i get rid of the light switch?

Charging System, Wiring, Lighting
deez
honda305.com Member
Posts: 145
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:18 pm
Location: san francisco

Post by deez » Thu Jan 22, 2009 1:52 am

so just spent some time in the garage hooking up the green, brown, white, and black with the white collar together. along with the yellow and pink together as per your guys instructions. kicked over the bike with no luck. so then i unplugged the brown wire and it fired up instantly. i do only have the 2 state handlebar switch but dont understand what the difference would be if i had the 3 state one? so i checked out the stock headlight and noticed that the ground wire comes from the bulb to the headlight rim then spliced out to connect to a green wire? i have not done this yet to my new headlight set up, mine just grounds to the headlight shell and doesnt splice and connect to anything after that. would this make the difference? here are some pics of stocky and then my setup. thanks again for all the info
-cheers
deez
Attachments
stock
stock
new set up
new set up

e3steve
h305 Moderator
Posts: 2601
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Thu Jan 22, 2009 5:41 am

thanks again! ill try this tonight and let you know if this works. i think my handlebar switch is the one with only 2 states. i will also check on that tonight. so if im understanding this correctly e3steve
hook the black with the white collar together with brown and green. then just hook yellow and pink together so that is a complete curcuit? then that leaves me with the white wire going where? at work right now otherwise i would run out and check this. a little more info about my bike is that im not running a battery at all, im running the same combo as davomoto. using a computer capacitor and kick start only with a rectifier off of a cb350 (works well).
ill check this out tonight though
-cheers
The pink carries AC from additional coils within the dynamo (alternator) and adds these coils to the yellow wire which also carries AC. This increases the voltage and available current at the rectifier to support the demand placed upon the system when the lights are switched on.

The white wire, according to the diagram (my CB's not easily accessible just now) comes from the ignition (combination) switch.

Superchicken
honda305.com Member
Posts: 213
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:10 am
Location: Turlock, Ca.

Post by Superchicken » Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:09 am

I think maybe it would be SAFER for you to get a Clymer book, look on page 85. This has a explanation of just how the switches function. Then it will be clearer, on what is necessary. Think it thru, you'll get, and there will be LESS chance of a mishap

deez
honda305.com Member
Posts: 145
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:18 pm
Location: san francisco

Post by deez » Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:02 pm

so no suggestions on why when i hook up the brown wire the bike will die or not start?

e3steve
h305 Moderator
Posts: 2601
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Fri Jan 23, 2009 1:30 pm

Sorry deez, I'm moving drum and I'm relying on free public wifi. Is this the brown from the light switch that goes to the 'bar dimmer switch and connects to the green of the meter lamp (according the the wiring diag)?

I suspect that, without a battery, the lights are sinking the available current which is, in turn causing the voltage to collapse. Does the headlight work if you connect the brown once the motor is running?

I'm not certain that the diagram is totally correct as, without my own bike to hand, I can't work out some of the switching paths.

EDITED: wiring diagram replaced with colour version

EDITED AGAIN: Diagram corrected once more.
Attachments
CB Wiring diag in colour.jpg
Last edited by e3steve on Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:54 am, edited 2 times in total.

deez
honda305.com Member
Posts: 145
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:18 pm
Location: san francisco

Post by deez » Mon Aug 10, 2009 11:31 pm

thanks a ton for all the help you guys! and sorry for not responding e3steve i got fustrated, gave up and tore the whole bike apart to take to powdercoaters. so i finally got it and you guys were right. i hooked the pink and yellow together • the black with white collar to the green • then the brown from the hi-lo handlebar switch to one state of a radio shack switch and the other state to the black with white collar. works like a charm. e3steve you were right about it drawing too much power and the switch was the only way around it. funny thing is then i hooked up the tail light then the bike wouldnt stay running! the 35w halogen and the tail light was too much for it so i added an led bulb on the tail and everything is all good.
i did have one question though, do i need to ground the headlight to something? i know the original set up had a ground but mine seems fine without it?
-cheers
-deez

e3steve
h305 Moderator
Posts: 2601
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Tue Aug 11, 2009 3:46 am

If the headlight is working and at normal brightness then it must be getting an earth (0V / zero Volts) from somewhere; perhaps via a route finding its path along the speedo or tacho drive cable. Ground the headlight properly: take a 1mm² (17AWG) green wire from the headlamp grounding point, via the harness sheath, out of the headlamp and ground it beneath the tank. I used the factory ground at one of the coil bracket screws. I'm not certain of the ground-path that Honda intended, but there was no grounding wire inside the bucket on my CB. I can only assume that an earth return, via the steering head bearing races, was being relied upon, which goes against the grain for me. Same goes for the taillight being grounded via the rear fender.

Not relying on earth return means that the paint need not be breached which, in turn, means that rust formation from bare metal and cathodic reaction is very much delayed, if not eradicated entirely.

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