Fresh meat!

[LOUD MOUSE]

Good to see ya have a good imagination and can figure things out. You removed the rotor the same way I did for many years until I got that threaded puller. Did you check the seal in the starter sprocket? I agree that the wear on the cable was probably done earlier and when ya route it correctly you won't have a problem. I can't tell if the tab held in place by the screw ya can see is there. It keeps the cable in place at that area. I wouldn't worry about the starter chain as it only moves when ya push the starter button and shouldn't cause/have problems. ..........lm

I put a 14mm wrench on the stator bolt and smacked it. It loosened right up and I removed it. Then I put a 1/4" x 2" flathead bolt in the hole and attached my three jaw puller. Had it off in about 20 seconds.

The seal looks ok. Maybe it's leaking anyway, I don't know.

[Loudo]

Thanks, Ed, I appreciate the comment...it looked pretty common sense in that a guy only needed something the right length for the puller to bear upon. Also had to have something to keep the end of the puller from wandering around so the slot in the screw was good for that. Of course if the rotor didn't conveniently have slots around the edge at 1/3 points that the puller jaws fit into it would have been trickier.

I was examining the stator and it looked like the metal surfaces were grooved, non-uniformly in some places. So I looked at the rotor and noticed that there is a little gouged-out metal on the rim...I'm guessing someone inadvisedly jammed a screwdriver in there for some poorly thought out reason and did this. I've attached a photo showing the rotor edge. So I will grind and smooth this off.

Which brings up another question...since I have all these parts out, should I freshen up the "business end" surfaces of the rotor and stator? Should I apply a little steel wool and elbow grease or perhaps something more heavy duty?

By the way, Ed, the tab that holds the starter cable in place is there and doing its job. I see that if one pulls on the cable it can straighten out and drop down near the chain where it has no business being. I'm taking your advice and leaving that starter chain alone...I've got bigger fish to fry anyway.

Heading to the Honda dealer and seeing if I can get an oil seal to replace the seal around the clutch lifter rod. It didn't look broken, but when I examined it under a 10x loupe I could see it was cracked around the inner "race."

Anyone have other suggestions about stuff I should do at this point before I button everything up, assuming I can get that oil seal before too long?

[LOUD MOUSE]

If ya like ya can dress up the parts but I don't recommend steel wool as the rotor is magnetic!!!!!!!
Ya can check the stater coils for looseness and if any are loose (move at all) ya can use a punch to bend down the thin steel flap sort of thing on each end. ..................lm

Thanks, Ed, I appreciate the comment...it looked pretty common sense in that a guy only needed something the right length for the puller to bear upon. Also had to have something to keep the end of the puller from wandering around so the slot in the screw was good for that. Of course if the rotor didn't conveniently have slots around the edge at 1/3 points that the puller jaws fit into it would have been trickier.

I was examining the stator and it looked like the metal surfaces were grooved, non-uniformly in some places. So I looked at the rotor and noticed that there is a little gouged-out metal on the rim...I'm guessing someone inadvisedly jammed a screwdriver in there for some poorly thought out reason and did this. I've attached a photo showing the rotor edge. So I will grind and smooth this off.

Which brings up another question...since I have all these parts out, should I freshen up the "business end" surfaces of the rotor and stator? Should I apply a little steel wool and elbow grease or perhaps something more heavy duty?

By the way, Ed, the tab that holds the starter cable in place is there and doing its job. I see that if one pulls on the cable it can straighten out and drop down near the chain where it has no business being. I'm taking your advice and leaving that starter chain alone...I've got bigger fish to fry anyway.

Heading to the Honda dealer and seeing if I can get an oil seal to replace the seal around the clutch lifter rod. It didn't look broken, but when I examined it under a 10x loupe I could see it was cracked around the inner "race."

Anyone have other suggestions about stuff I should do at this point before I button everything up, assuming I can get that oil seal before too long?

[Loudo]

So I trekked on down to the Honda shop but it turns out they're closed on Sundays AND Mondays. Have to wait to order that oil seal, should one be available at all.

Continued on over to Tacoma Screw Products as I couldn't abide the thought of wrenching all these gouged up crankcase fasteners back onto the bike. Also looking for some bolts to hold the seat down until I can get my hands on some proper shouldered bolts. I had my seat with me so the seat bolts were no problem...I bought nylon spacers so they at least approximate the stock bolts. Since there're five different fasteners on the crankcase cover, I made detailed notes where they all go. Then I dumped the whole handful into the Tacoma Screw guy's hand and he promptly went back and came out with all the bolts I need. Total bill with tax....$4.17. This place is where the big-time contractors and various jobbers go but they give great service for even the small fry like me. So any of you guys in the Puget Sound area that need fasteners, save yourself the trouble of searching all over the internet for this stuff because Tacoma Screw is evidently the old Honda restorer's best friend.

Here's a pic of the old and new fasteners.

[Loudo]

Ordered the oil seal that surrounds the clutch lifter rod yesterday from the Honda dealer, about seven bucks. I had taken davomoto's suggestion to pull the rotor and look at the oil seal behind it and noted that it looked ok. I decided to order another one while at the Honda dealer but they told me it was discontinued. So for now I'm just gonna be real nice to that seal and reinstall the rotor. "Step slowly away from the oil seal sir, keep yer hands where we can see them..."

The drive sprocket looks ok...very slightly worn is all, you have to look real close to see any wear at all. The curious thing is it is a 16 tooth sprocket which I don't see as an option in my parts catalog. I'm assuming this is an aftermarket part (?). Paired with the current 32 tooth rear sprocket I suppose the drive ratio is the same as the stock 15/30 pairing. I'll keep my eye out for a front sprocket, but I'm mainly going to concentrate on a rear sprocket and new chain. This "RK 50S Roller Chain" that TAS is routinely selling on eBay for $29 including shipping, does anyone have an opinion about the appropriateness of that chain for my bike?

Thanks again for everyone's comments so far and in the future, I really appreciate the help.

[e3steve]

Most oil lip-seals are easily obtained from bearing suppliers, hydraulics specialists or engineering shops. Order from the number on the sidewall of the old seal; e.g. an 8-21-6 is 8mm(ID)x21mm(OD)x6mm(thickness).

[davomoto]

I just installed one of the chains from TAS last week on my CL77. It seems like a good chain, and a really good price.

davomoto