Fresh meat!

[Loudo]

Apparently I lied in the previous post about the photo of the ground cable, but here it is. The battery connection end is broken off. My experience with a complicated vehicle of a certain British marque has caused me to be quite scornful of any large copper wires with visible green corrosion when said wire's purpose is associated with large electrical currents. The insulation at the other end of the wire is broken with corrosion apparent there too. I plan to visit an auto electrical shop to have a new cable made. Is there anything special about this cable that an OEM part should be purchased instead, or at least attempted to be purchased?

Sorry for the crappy picture. I promise to do better.

[LOUD MOUSE]

No problem with oil on the stator and you have 2 seals behind the rotor.
One for yje crank and one in the starter sprocket.
Oil seal behind the points plate is probably hard as a gock and leaking.
Be sure to heat the area you plan on bending before ya try to bend those levers.
I'd make a new cable. ..............lm

In the mail tomorrow should be my carb rebuild kits, air filters, and shop manual. I was able to order the shift lever oil seal from the local Honda dealer...$11, but whaddya gonna do?

I've attached photos of the stator, points and battery ground cable and have these questions:

1. The cloth covering over the stator coils appears to be quite oily. I don't know much about this stuff, but when I think "electrical" I think "dry is good." The parts diagram doesn't show an oil seal in the area, but is there a chance I have an oil seal in need of replacement? Is this something that needs urgent attention or not?

2. Similarly, in the bottom-most mounting screw below the points plate resides a drop of oil. Assuming that the oil seal (16287 size) needs replacement, is this a pretty common malady that should be corrected right away?

The first photo shows a problem with the kickstarter/rear brake pedal. Evidently the bike got dropped some time in the last 45 years and shoved the brake pedal under the kickstarter. I plan to remove the brake pedal and give it a different shape. Shift lever suffers similarly and will get the same treatment.

[Loudo]

Didn't get my shop manual today so I couldn't jump in with both feet, but I did get my carb kits, tach cable and air filters from Retro Bikes today. Those filters sure are purty and only $25 a pop...a pretty good deal seeing as how a certain fleaBay businessman is trying to sell the same thing for $89. Speaking of fleaBay, I purchased a new handlebar same as the existing flat style because I can't abide to look at that cob-job weld or whatever the hell it is a previous owner did to put the handlebar back together. I like to read all I can before asking the stupid questions because that's how I roll, but without the shop manual I'm kind of stalled. So here's my stupid questions, go ahead and laugh:

1. When performing carb rebuilds, are these normally done with the carb still bolted to the cylinder head? In other words, remove the carb top end and slide and the float bowl? It seems to me this gives one access to everything you need, but I thought I'd ask.

2. How should one remove the float bowl pin in order to clean and inspect the float bowl? It's not obvious to me.

3. I note that the new jet needles included in the carb kits are noticeably thicker than the needles in the bike. Is it possible that the old needles used to be the same size as the new needles but have actually been worn thinner by the friction of fuel flow over time?

Looking at the position of the throttle slides through the air intakes with the air filter hoses removed, I note they are not identical. At the throttle fully off position, the left slide is completely bottomed out in the carb while on the right side there is a small gap (1/32") between the bottom of the slide and the carb base it slides in. I have a little slack available in the throttle cable and do not need to screw the adjustment bolt into the top of the carb all the way in, so the "cable too short" thing I was battling and puzzling over earlier I think is moot (for now.) Removing the throttle cable and spring from the slide and just dropping the slide into the carb verifies that this is simply as far as the slide will go, and there is nothing obstructing it in the base of the carb. My question is, is it absolutely necessary there be no gap at the bottom of the slide in the "throttle off" position I've described? Is there any concern about the difference between the two slides? I don't want to worry about something insignificant. I have verified that they appear to start moving at the same time using the thumb and middle finger technique.

[LOUD MOUSE]

Remove both carbs as it is much easier to clean them when ya have them in hand and on the bench.
The pin is removed to either side when the bowl is removed.
The CB77 needle will be short/thicker when compared to the CL77 needle.
I suspect you have the slide screw turned in on the carb with the slide that is not going to the bottom. .............lm

Didn't get my shop manual today so I couldn't jump in with both feet, but I did get my carb kits, tach cable and air filters from Retro Bikes today. Those filters sure are purty and only $25 a pop...a pretty good deal seeing as how a certain fleaBay businessman is trying to sell the same thing for $89. Speaking of fleaBay, I purchased a new handlebar same as the existing flat style because I can't abide to look at that cob-job weld or whatever the hell it is a previous owner did to put the handlebar back together. I like to read all I can before asking the stupid questions because that's how I roll, but without the shop manual I'm kind of stalled. So here's my stupid questions, go ahead and laugh:

1. When performing carb rebuilds, are these normally done with the carb still bolted to the cylinder head? In other words, remove the carb top end and slide and the float bowl? It seems to me this gives one access to everything you need, but I thought I'd ask.

2. How should one remove the float bowl pin in order to clean and inspect the float bowl? It's not obvious to me.

3. I note that the new jet needles included in the carb kits are noticeably thicker than the needles in the bike. Is it possible that the old needles used to be the same size as the new needles but have actually been worn thinner by the friction of fuel flow over time?

Looking at the position of the throttle slides through the air intakes with the air filter hoses removed, I note they are not identical. At the throttle fully off position, the left slide is completely bottomed out in the carb while on the right side there is a small gap (1/32") between the bottom of the slide and the carb base it slides in. I have a little slack available in the throttle cable and do not need to screw the adjustment bolt into the top of the carb all the way in, so the "cable too short" thing I was battling and puzzling over earlier I think is moot (for now.) Removing the throttle cable and spring from the slide and just dropping the slide into the carb verifies that this is simply as far as the slide will go, and there is nothing obstructing it in the base of the carb. My question is, is it absolutely necessary there be no gap at the bottom of the slide in the "throttle off" position I've described? Is there any concern about the difference between the two slides? I don't want to worry about something insignificant. I have verified that they appear to start moving at the same time using the thumb and middle finger technique.

[davomoto]

If your neddles are origional needles, stamper K24231, for CB77, or K24304 for CL77, reuse them, and trash the replacement needles. ZI also reuse the stock jets as well, as the ones in the kit don't seem as accurate as the origionals.

davomoto

[Loudo]

First, I should explain that my bike is a CB77 and I don't know nothin' 'bout nothin' with CL bikes. I don't have any CL parts, needles or otherwise. My question about the needle diameter was comparing my "old" CB77 needles with the "new" CB77 needles I am prepared to install on the bike, but seemingly against the advice of some folks. Don't use the new jets either, you say? Are there known shortcomings to the Keyster gaskets and the other screws?

This brings up another question: Do needles and jets wear out or not? If they do, where would one obtain high quality replacements as opposed to this shite I've purchased?

[davomoto]

The bowl gaskets are fine, just a bit too wide, and you may need to trim a bit, or squeeze the floats together a bit to clear the gasket. I try to use all of the origional brass whenever possible. The jets can be purchased from a Honda dealer, the needles are really hard to find. You may want to try Nick at Ohio Cycle, or Western Hills Honda for those. I think it would take a whole lot of miles to wear the brass out, but corrosion from water sitting in bowls, varnish etc can be detrimental to those parts. I use the gaskets, and float needles and seats out of those kits, and that's about it.

davomoto