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SCREWED BY J.I.S. SCREWS

3BeanCrispy
honda305.com Member
Posts: 166
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:26 am
Location: Punxsutawney, PA

Post by 3BeanCrispy » Sun Jun 15, 2008 8:50 am

6mm-1.0 would be drilled@ 5mm,so it would drill out the remnants of the original thread. The issue to me would be the he head of the bolt/screw protruding further than it should. More cosmetic than function.

jcspc
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Posts: 65
Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:50 pm
Location: Bozeman, MT

Post by jcspc » Sun Jun 15, 2008 10:04 am

I successfully tapped the stator cover holes yesterday. I got a 5mm .8 pitch tap, used oil and air tapping just a bit at a time. However, the hole depth was very shallow and the point of the tap would bottom out before the tap could make it full cut of thread. I got my grinder out and ground off about 3/16 of an inch of the point of the tap, making sure that there was still enough taper to start the tap into the hole. It worked out well and the screws are now in place.
Thanks
Jeff

marzini
honda305.com Member
Posts: 54
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:54 pm
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico

Post by marzini » Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:08 pm

I went ahead and installed M5x.8 inserts on the points plate, points cover, rotor cover and the left side starter end cover. I chose to use hex (allen) type flat-head M5x.8 screws for the points and rotor cover, hex head cap screws for the points plate and button-head screws for the starter cover.

The kit I got from a fastener supply included eight inserts, an insert tool, a drill and a tap. It was $33.

The "hardest" part was installing the inserts for the rotor cover. Those bolt-heads are made of hardened steel. Do all the aluminum J.I.S. threads first and save the rotor cover conversion for last
in case the drill gets dulled or damaged. —Mar'

PuttinAround
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Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 1:22 pm
Location: USA

Post by PuttinAround » Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:48 am

many motorcycle manufacturers used fine or ultra-fine threads in alloy cases for years

they did indeed learn the errors of this practice


coarser threads do indeed work better and last longer in aluminum

the problem with retapping a very fine thread to the same diameter coarse thread is that the minor diameter of the fine thread is larger than the minor diameter (tap drill diameter) of the next coarser thread

this means that retapping a 5x0.8 to 5x0.9 would actually work better for longer thread engagements instead of shorter ones even though the the minor diameter tolerances for shorter thread depths do give the thread tapper a directive to use a smaller tap drill

I haven't dragged out the Machinist Handbook to look at these threads and numbers but my intuition tells me I'd be tapping a 5x0.8 out to a 6mm coarse thread if there is enough metal to do so

especially for very short screws I wanted to actually clamp and stay put

FAST FRED
honda305.com Member
Posts: 166
Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 10:30 pm
Location: SACRAMENTO, CA

JIS SCREWS

Post by FAST FRED » Thu Nov 20, 2008 2:05 pm

I RECENTLY AQUIRED 12lbs OF JIS SCREWS AND BOLTS. MANY 5MM OVAL HEAD TO FIT POINT AND DYNO COVER. LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU NEED.

cbxmountainman
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Posts: 270
Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:20 am
Location: Green Mountain,NC

CL/CB Screws

Post by cbxmountainman » Tue Nov 25, 2008 2:50 pm

I just went and bought the correct ones from Honda. Got the correct sizes from my parts manual. No brainer as far as I'm concerned and a whole lot easier. You'd br surprised what's still available. A little pricey, but worth it to me.

FAST FRED
honda305.com Member
Posts: 166
Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 10:30 pm
Location: SACRAMENTO, CA

ISO IS NOT JIS

Post by FAST FRED » Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:26 pm

ALL HONDA PART NUMBERS FOR JIS SCREWS SUPERCEED TO ISO SCREWS. YOU ARE GOING TO BE PISSED WHEN YOU TRY YOUR NEW SCREWS. IF ITS POINT AND DYNO SCREWS YOU NEED? I HAVE SOME NEW JIS 5MM OVAL HEAD SCREWS, LET ME KNOW IF I CAN HELP.

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