should I be hearing my valves?

allthumbs · Post by **allthumbs** » Thu Oct 02, 2008 5:06 pm

first off thank you, but I fail to see your tuning recipe address the tappets. seems to be about points and carbs. Are you perhaps telling me I am rotating the motor incorrectly?

allthumbs · Post by **allthumbs** » Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:37 pm

here I find a nice explanation of how to adjust the tappets. clear and to the point. tomorrow

http://www.dansmc.com/valveclearence.htm

thank you

allthumbs · Post by **allthumbs** » Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:35 pm

In fact, at the root of this site, http://www.dansmc.com is a wealth of clear thinking and comunication regarding the mechanics of motorcycles.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Thu Oct 02, 2008 9:34 pm

Yes I am. With a 180 engine you set the right side and move the rotor 180 degrees and adjust the left side. If you have a 360 engine you adjust the right side and move the rotor 360 degrees and adjust the lft side. ....................lm

allthumbs wrote:first off thank you, but I fail to see your tuning recipe address the tappets. seems to be about points and carbs. Are you perhaps telling me I am rotating the motor incorrectly?

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Fri Oct 03, 2008 1:17 pm

pretty confused between the two books, Silvers and the sometimes conflicting clymers

From a personal viewpoint, I'd believe Bill's or Ed's settings over and above a Clymer manual. These guys are enthusiasts and gurus with a secret ingredient: experience! Clymer, Haynes, Chilton et al all have another, less important and more commercial agenda: they're just collators and publishers; they collate information made available to them by manufacturers (who aren't always correct....) and publish it in a nice, hard-backed book, for a fee. Clymer can't even get the bloody carb float levels right!

Follow the experience every time.

allthumbs · Post by **allthumbs** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 7:17 pm

if one were to replace attempt to replace the timing chain by attaching the new one to the separated end of the old one, keep tension on it and roll it through until the new one takes it's place and then reconnect the new one with the new master link, would they be successful?

maybe it's the beer

at the same time having the sprocket rivets welded.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 7:32 pm

Tis one way to get the chain into the engine however ya must keep in mind ya now have the chain in there but ya need to remove the cam chain tensioner and release the valve screws so ya can do the points cam (T) and the rotor at (T). ......................lm

allthumbs wrote:if one were to replace attempt to replace the timing chain by attaching the new one to the separated end of the old one, keep tension on it and roll it through until the new one takes it's place and then reconnect the new one with the new master link, would they be successful?

maybe it's the beer

at the same time having the sprocket rivets welded.