Charging improvements!

[e3steve]

Ah, I see I immediately have your attention....
Some months ago I promised that I'd tinker and experiment with this weak link. I've now done so; here are the tinkerings and results:

1. The first and most significant improvement resulted from replacing the tail-light bulb with a LEDACE 25RST http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm -- riding with the light switch in the headlight position but with the dimmer switch centred (leaving either headlight available for navigating traffic queues / parked cars / overtaking) -- check out Paul's halogen bulbs too; he has direct replacements and good ident pics for Bosch, British pre-focus and US pre-focus, one of which should fit the standard Stanley beam units.

• Upside - i) this immediately 'saves' current consumption (amps) thus providing a lift in battery terminal voltage, ii) use of the rear brake doesn't tax the battery
  Downside - i) the difference in light output between tail- and brake-light isn't as significant as the incandescent bulb (x2 as opposed to x3), ii) the white light for the numberplate/licence plate is a bit weedy

Charge current before this change - @ 4000rpm, : 13.10V / 2.5A
And after - @ 4000rpm, : 13.40V / 2.8A

2. The second improvement has been replacement of the old (but not original) 15A(?) selenium-diode rectifier with a 25Amp Schottky-diode type (I know some have already carried out replacement, predominantly with a silicon-diode type from Radio Shack, with great results) -- my pic below. The rec and heatsink are http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... m=629-0041 and http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... rm=103-960 respectively; I drilled the heatsink and locked the rec to it using an M5 x 40 machine screw.
The rec has the advantage of a low forward-volt attenuation of 1.1V, as opposed to the selenium figure of circa 3V. There is no evidence of overcharging as yet, as I haven't needed to top up the batt's electrolyte.

Charge current before this change - @ 4000rpm, : 13.40V / 2.8A, parking light on
And after - @ 4000rpm, : 13.65V / 3.0A, parking light on

Now, I realise that these increases are relatively small-beer, but time and extended use will tell. I'll keep you all info'd. I've only made short excursions before testing yesterday, the voltage and current measurements being carried out using Fluke calibrated DMM and clampmeter.

Sorry for the quality of the photo; I have to use my 1.3Mp phonecam now that Cowbag has left and taken her Sony camera!

Regards to all,

Steve

[bigscooter]

that's a great looking heatsink!
i'm going to see if i can find one locally.

[e3steve]

It's made in the US by Aavid Thermalloy and is part # 2296BG at the bottom of the page here:

http://www.aavidthermalloy.com/products ... dial.shtml

Click on Find Distributor in the Useful Links pane.

G'luck!

[marzini]

Great info and documentation, e3. Gracias!

[cbxmountainman]

I've used 1157 Halogen bulbs for quite a long time in my tail light. Really stands up better to the vibration from a CL77 rather than the fragile incandescent type. JMHO

[56_oval]

Ah, I see I immediately have your attention....
Some months ago I promised that I'd tinker and experiment with this weak link. I've now done so; here are the tinkerings and results:

1. The first and most significant improvement resulted from replacing the tail-light bulb with a LEDACE 25RST http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm -- riding with the light switch in the headlight position but with the dimmer switch centred (leaving either headlight available for navigating traffic queues / parked cars / overtaking) -- check out Paul's halogen bulbs too; he has direct replacements and good ident pics for Bosch, British pre-focus and US pre-focus, one of which should fit the standard Stanley beam units.

• Upside - i) this immediately 'saves' current consumption (amps) thus providing a lift in battery terminal voltage, ii) use of the rear brake doesn't tax the battery
  Downside - i) the difference in light output between tail- and brake-light isn't as significant as the incandescent bulb (x2 as opposed to x3), ii) the white light for the numberplate/licence plate is a bit weedy

Charge current before this change - @ 4000rpm, : 13.10V / 2.5A
And after - @ 4000rpm, : 13.40V / 2.8A

2. The second improvement has been replacement of the old (but not original) 15A(?) selenium-diode rectifier with a 25Amp Schottky-diode type (I know some have already carried out replacement, predominantly with a silicon-diode type from Radio Shack, with great results) -- my pic below. The rec and heatsink are http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... m=629-0041 and http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... rm=103-960 respectively; I drilled the heatsink and locked the rec to it using an M5 x 40 machine screw.
The rec has the advantage of a low forward-volt attenuation of 1.1V, as opposed to the selenium figure of circa 3V. There is no evidence of overcharging as yet, as I haven't needed to top up the batt's electrolyte.

Charge current before this change - @ 4000rpm, : 13.40V / 2.8A, parking light on
And after - @ 4000rpm, : 13.65V / 3.0A, parking light on

Now, I realise that these increases are relatively small-beer, but time and extended use will tell. I'll keep you all info'd. I've only made short excursions before testing yesterday, the voltage and current measurements being carried out using Fluke calibrated DMM and clampmeter.

Sorry for the quality of the photo; I have to use my 1.3Mp phonecam now that Cowbag has left and taken her Sony camera!

Regards to all,

Steve

First of all, great writeup! Second, I have two questions, one on topic and one off. 1.) Is the heat sink necessary? I recently purchased a silicone rectifier from Oregon Cycle and he states a heat sink isn't necessary. I am wondering how true that is. I am almost done with my resto and I will be using the bike as a daily rider and would hate to have issues right after I get her running. Here is a picture of it mounted.



2.) Off topic... Did you fit a late seat on an early frame? If so, do you have any pics of the brackets?
Thanks Steve,
Isiah

[Hotshoe]

I just installed one of superbrightleds.com's 1157-R19W6 taillight bulbs on my CL77.
The red rear facing LEDs are bright and are almost like a beam of red light when viewed from behind and the white perimeter LEDs provide excellent license plate illumination which helps with visibility too.
Super Bright LEDs was great to deal with, Bill quickly straightened out a minor issue with my order with no questions asked.
Regards, Chuck