Removing stuck clutch basket

[hefyjefy]

The orgin of this story is here:
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=7643437
In order to replace a broken shift lever it is necessary to remove the clutch and primary chain, according to the manual and numeros YouTube videos the clutch basket along with the smaller drive gear and primary chain simply slide off the splined shaft(s) mine didn't, the clutch basket would revolve freely (in neutral) but refused to slide off the shaft, despite removal of the snap ring and clutch and pressure plates.
After much head-scratching (had I missed something?) and review of the worshop manual and more YouTube vids I decided that maybe a ridge had worn in the shaft and bearing so I decided to get a 6" puller and yank it off...
Easier said than done, a standard 6" puller doesn't quite get a purchase on the outer rim of the clutch basket with the drive chain in place, however it did look as if it would work if the chain was removed.
At this point there were two options:\
1. Cut the drive chain and hope that indeed the puller would fit (not certain)
2. Make a puller that would do he job.
I had enough bits and pieces laying around so I decided to make a puller. (note that a larger puller is not an option - an 8" or 10" puller is far to big to get in the small space available)
After a whole day making a puller and carefully pulling and tapping,the basket was nearly off but my home made puller could not handle the last 1/4" or so (the basket was still solidly stuck to the shaft) luckily it had pulled off far enough to allow the chain to be removed from the small gear. This in turn allowed me to use the purchased 6" puller and finally the clutch basket was off.
Knowing now that the puller worked OK if the chain is removed, I think option 1 would have been better, (a chain is $25 on eBay)
See pictures for details of damage, pullers etc anyone have any idea what caused the damage to the splines?
I think emery paper and some careful oild stone work on the splines should fix the problem.
Geoff

[Tim Allman]

First. DON'T CUT THE PRIMARY DRIVE CHAIN!!! This seems to be the only place where chains of this pitch or length are used, they haven't been made for 50 years and they are very hard to find. The only one I can find is this one and it's much more expensive. If you really have found one for $25 then buy it because your bike probably needs it or will in the future.

I'm glad that you were able to get the basket off. From the pictures it looks like it may have been caused by oil starvation although I would expect signs of heating as well as the deformation. As you discovered online, everything should come apart easily. I hope you didn't bend the basket.

[hefyjefy]

Yes, thanks for the heads up regarding the primary chain it does look a little unusual...
It was a real struggle, I was very aware that damaging the basket was a real possibilty and I used miniumum persuasion (it took hours) it was real tight right up to he last 1/4 "
I tidied everything up, the spline shaft just needed a little emery cloth and I was able to put he basket in he lathe and polish out most of he damage.
I got a new gasket and gear change seal today, everything is back together and the bike is back on the road - no ill effects.
It still has the issue of missing up shifts from 2nd to 3rd but that's always been a problem.
Any thoughts on fixing that? I guess it's a major gearbox job, are there parts available?
Best,
Geoff

[Tim Allman]

I'm glad things have gone well. Usually the problem is that shifts to 2nd are missed. I have no experience with problems with 3rd gear shifts but I don't think it's common. All I can suggest is that you have a look inside and see how things are moving in the transmission. You'll note that the gear dogs (on the sides of the gears) are undercut so that they will pull together as soon as the shift fork moves the gears close enough so your problem suggests that that is not happening.

Happy riding!

[hefyjefy]

Once again many thanks, I could be wrong about the gear shift problem now I come to think maybe its 1st to 2nd, I have gotten so used to it it doesn't bother me that much.
I am currently working on the right side cover replacing the kickstart bearing it's become worryingly wobbley!
I would like to polish the right side cover (somebody already did the left side) but I cant figureout how to remove the two grease nipples, are they a push fit or threaded?
Geoff

[Tim Allman]

The grease nipples are brass and are just pressed into the cover. They can easily be pulled out but I haven't found a tool that will grab them but not damage them. I found some for sale (https://www.davidsilverspares.com/part_36916/) and just replaced them. I have used an ordinary grease gun on them without problem as the fitting on the gun will grab the grease fitting well enough.

There is one thing to look for on the right cover; cracking just above the kick starter shaft bushing. This is a common problem. Honda sent out a service bulletin way back in time suggesting that lubricating this bushing regularly would help. If you find a crack it can be repaired by welding on the back side.

I just put mine into its shed for the winter, assuming one even happens this year.

[hefyjefy]

Thank you, all appears ok no crack. I just fitted a new kick start bush...