That crankshaft lock washer...

R100 · Post by **R100** » Mon Jun 01, 2015 3:53 pm

The one on the left end under the castle nut.
I doubt I am the first one to discover theirs is rubbish.
The single tang on the inside that fits in a slot on the crankshaft is gone. These don't seem to be available.
Has anyone tried to carefully cut and bend a new inside tang?
Would purple (oil resistant) Loctite be a possible alternative?

SMBH · Post by **SMBH** » Mon Jun 01, 2015 6:08 pm

When I rebuilt my engine some 18 months ago I binned that silly castle nut and lock washer with all the tabs on and put a self locking nut on, you could put some thread lock on as well, you can then use a socket to tighten it up do give the thread a good clean first with something like Acetone, or meths, I have had no problems with mine.
You must remember when these bikes in the early 60's were built there was none of the modern locking stuff you can get today today you can stick almost anything together if you use the right stuff.
Before I retired I worked for a company that put glass fibre high top on vans and we used a product called Silka flex to stick the roofs to the vans nothing else and that was 10 years ago. So what have they got today, there are some great thread locking stuff out there.
I do not wish to go on for ever but I have seen a thread locking stuff that you can use on a oily thread don't ask me how that work, or the size of the nut I took the crank to my local nut and bolt stockest he fixed me up with a nut.
Hope this helps.

R100 · Post by **R100** » Mon Jun 01, 2015 6:50 pm

Thanks SMBH.
I have used Permatex "surface insensitive" thread locker before where there is oil around and it worked well. (Driveshaft bolts on a BMW R100.)
I will look for a locknut locally. Did not know you could get them that big.
How much torque, if you remember?

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Tue Jun 02, 2015 3:04 am

R100 / SMBH

Thread is 20mm x 1mm pitch. I bought a die to clean up the threads on a crank. Fits perfectly.

G

SMBH · Post by **SMBH** » Tue Jun 02, 2015 3:39 am

R100 wrote:Thanks SMBH.
I have used Permatex "surface insensitive" thread locker before where there is oil around and it worked well. (Driveshaft bolts on a BMW R100.)
I will look for a locknut locally. Did not know you could get them that big.
How much torque, if you remember?

I must be getting old on reflection I DID NOT use a lock nut just a high good quality nut and some thread lock as for torque it I just did it up tight yes I know but some 60 years of doing up nuts one gets a feeling the only torque setting I use is on the cylinder head. Look in the workshop manual for the torque setting it should be in there.

R100 · Post by **R100** » Tue Jun 02, 2015 7:59 am

G-Man wrote:R100 / SMBH
Thread is 20mm x 1mm pitch. I bought a die to clean up the threads on a crank. Fits perfectly.
G

Thanks for the size G. Threads on the crank are very good. I am sure that die was ex$pen$ive.

R100 · Post by **R100** » Tue Jun 02, 2015 8:13 am

SMBH wrote: I must be getting old on reflection I DID NOT use a lock nut just a high good quality nut and some thread lock as for torque it I just did it up tight yes I know but some 60 years of doing up nuts one gets a feeling the only torque setting I use is on the cylinder head. Look in the workshop manual for the torque setting it should be in there.

I will go looking for a quality nut that size. Much better solution.
I believe the rotation of the engine and its pulsing would have a tendency to tighten the nut rather than loosen it, and would be the reason for the left hand thread on the alternator end.
I too am old enough to have a wrist that has learned to be reasonably close on torque. My torque wrench gets used for things like head bolts, where it is important to get them all the same.
The simple torque settings in my wrist are - finger tight, snug, tight, very tight, and "grunt" tight. The latter being reserved for things like the big rear wheel nut on my HawkGT.