67 CL77 battery draining

ugmold · Post by **ugmold** » Fri May 08, 2015 9:26 am

Trying to get my CL77 up and running and came across another problem. The battery (new) is draining. I found this out the hard way doing a test ride on one cylinder and having it die out.

When I got back the battery read 11.46 with the key off, meter steady. With the key on I watched the digital meter reading descend rather quickly. The PO had a off-on-off MX style aftermarket switch on the handlebars.

The 2 yellow wires from the on-off-on switch are soldered to couple of wires with lugs on them that have red/white cloth braiding over a white wire.

The ignition switch appears to have nothing attached to the CH post. Is this where the 2 belong?

Last image is for verification that the positive battery connection looks ok.
I don't feel confident looking at the schematics I see in making these determinations.
Thanks for reading.

Waveblaster · Post by **Waveblaster** » Fri May 08, 2015 10:05 am

That looks interesting.

I don't know if you have a wiring diagram but this might help. http://www.honda305.com/forums/download.php?id=5418

At a quick glance of the diagram perhaps the selenium rectifier has a partial loss to ground.

ugmold · Post by **ugmold** » Fri May 08, 2015 10:59 am

Waveblaster wrote:That looks interesting.

I don't know if you have a wiring diagram but this might help. http://www.honda305.com/forums/download.php?id=5418

At a quick glance of the diagram perhaps the selenium rectifier has a partial loss to ground.

Thanks, I've looked at a couple of schematics, it does look like they belong on the CH terminal, I just cleaned off/desoldered the old yellow wires from the lugs. It looks like one is going to the battery post and the other is leading to the solenoid. Would like a second opinion.

Of course I'm not sure this will correct the battery drain off, hoping it will.
-Forrest

ugmold · Post by **ugmold** » Fri May 08, 2015 1:48 pm

I ran some test leads (fused) and hitched up the 2 lug wires to the CH. Seems to function right, put the voltmeter on the battery with the key on dipped a little, slowly and stopped. I think this is correct (still not certain).

Another problem is the tail light is on when the key is on, the tail light is from what I assuming is a later model Honda, has 2 filaments, assume it is ok for a replacement function wise. 2 leads and a ground. I checked continuity at the brake switch were the 2 leads had been reattached, it was grounding out, cut one wire and the switch seems ok. Traced the blue, white and black wires and they seem to be correct. Don't know what is making that tail light come on with the switch.

-Forrest

Waveblaster · Post by **Waveblaster** » Sat May 09, 2015 2:18 am

Wiring can be a pain to diagnose

I don't see why they would isolate the selenium regulator if it was working correctly. The rear of the switch is generally banded to the wiring colours.

I would test to see if there is any current flowing from the battery through the regulator circuit .

Tail light double check the earthing to the guard that can cause strange behaviour.

mike in idaho · Post by **mike in idaho** » Sat May 09, 2015 9:14 am

ugmold wrote:I ran some test leads (fused) and hitched up the 2 lug wires to the CH. Seems to function right, put the voltmeter on the battery with the key on dipped a little, slowly and stopped. I think this is correct (still not certain).

Another problem is the tail light is on when the key is on, the tail light is from what I assuming is a later model Honda, has 2 filaments, assume it is ok for a replacement function wise. 2 leads and a ground. I checked continuity at the brake switch were the 2 leads had been reattached, it was grounding out, cut one wire and the switch seems ok. Traced the blue, white and black wires and they seem to be correct. Don't know what is making that tail light come on with the switch.

-Forrest

The tail light is controlled by the switch in the headlight shell. The main switch has a "park" position where the tail light is left on and the key can be removed.

ugmold · Post by **ugmold** » Sat May 09, 2015 10:34 am

Mike,
With the key in the on position I had the Headlight Switch to the left position which makes the twilight come on, if I put it in the middle position the tail light goes out (!) and the brake light functions as it should. 3rd position on the HL Switch and the headlight comes and I get running lights and the brake light!

With the key in the 3rd position the tail light comes on and I can remove the key. Now with key on, and the HL switch in the center position the voltmeter no longer drops! So I'm thinking all is well and that reattaching the 2 leads to the CH post was the problem of the battery drain.

What is the point of that first headlight position?

Thanks a million Mike and Waveblaster.

Now I can get back to this:
http://www.honda305.com/forums/67-cl77- ... 290098ff7a