Chasing Carb issues - High Idle

[LOUD MOUSE]

This what I read.
The valves were adjusted to spec..."but a little on the loose side since they tend to tighten over time".
I'm running Charile's Place e-ignition, with the left firing at LF when at TDC of the intake stroke...then rotate 180 and the right fires at TDC on F.
This isn't mentioned in the FAQ. Float height could be looked at. I've read 22MM or 26.5MM depending on the carbs. Mine have "26" stamped on the side. According to what I've read, those require the 22MM float height...which seems almost impossible to achieve and would require the tang on the float to be bent in the negative direction.
"Carbs have been synched, both by watching the slides and by watching the needle move with the jet removed."
I didn't have most of these adjustments in the FAQ and the reason is that when followed to the letter your tune will be correct.
Read the FAQ then what you sent to the forum. .................lm

I see you are not actually using my adjustment technique and I wish you good luck as you pic what you think will work and so far not good. ......lm

http://www.honda305.com/forums/carb-flo ... ight=float

This has Ed's method of setting the floats. It's easy and it works.

HT

lm - can you elaborate? were you referencing my post? I'm not seeing how I'm not following your instructions...other than the fact that I have an e-ignition instead of points.

I synched the carbs both by watching and feeling the slides. I bottomed out the slides, then turned the slide screws a few turns in. I set the mixture screw to about 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out from bottom. Choke at 3/4 close when starting. I'm definitely off on my float heights.

When reading this post from you: "I have a simple way to set the floats on the CB/CL77 carbs. With the bowls removed and also the main jet I look across the bottoms of the floats and set the float tang to just touch the needle valve at the same time I just see the brass main jet holder. ...................lm"

I think I understand. So I remove the bowls and main jets, in my case, the 135 jets, but leave the brass jet holder screwed into the carb body. At this point, I need to push the floats upward. If the float tang starts pressing the float valve plunger in before I see main jet holder, the my floats are too low. Vise versa, if I can see the main jet holder before the tang stars pushing the plunger in, then my float level is too high.

Am I understanding you correctly. Thanks!

[scud]

Agreed. I was highlighting the ignition timing method I went through, since I wasn't able to follow this part of your instructions due to me not using points.

I would imagine that I could follow all of the other parts of your instructions to the letter (and in sequence) and achieve a proper tune.

If all else fails, I will pull the e-ignition and install the points...then go through your steps exactly as you've explained.

Thanks!
scud

[LOUD MOUSE]

The timing is probably not the problem.
More the way you set the valves and carb slides.
And I use the second from the bottom slot on the needle same as HONDA did. .......lm

Agreed. I was highlighting the ignition timing method I went through, since I wasn't able to follow this part of your instructions due to me not using points.

I would imagine that I could follow all of the other parts of your instructions to the letter (and in sequence) and achieve a proper tune.

If all else fails, I will pull the e-ignition and install the points...then go through your steps exactly as you've explained.

Thanks!
scud

[scud]

The timing is probably not the problem.
More the way you set the valves and carb slides.
And I use the second from the bottom slot on the needle same as HONDA did. .......lm

okay, thank you. I will go back through the steps to ensure I've done it correctly.

one more question if you wouldn't mind. would you suspect that a sticking advancer unit could be something to look at?

I'm not sure if the idle would respond to the choke if it was a stuck advancer though...

[LOUD MOUSE]

In the 60's when these bikes were everywhere a a statement was ("Your carb problem is in diredt proportion to the miss timing of your points".
I know you have electronic ignition and wonder "have you checked the timing with a timing light while the engine is running"?
What you describe can be caused by "No Spark" on one side then it starts to fire and your slide and screws are not tuned to the other side "which had been running the engine by itself". ............lm

The timing is probably not the problem.
More the way you set the valves and carb slides.
And I use the second from the bottom slot on the needle same as HONDA did. .......lm

okay, thank you. I will go back through the steps to ensure I've done it correctly.

one more question if you wouldn't mind. would you suspect that a sticking advancer unit could be something to look at?

I'm not sure if the idle would respond to the choke if it was a stuck advancer though...

[LOUD MOUSE]

I'm running Charile's Place e-ignition, with the left firing at LF when at TDC of the intake stroke...then rotate 180 and the right fires at TDC on F.
What do you mean by this?. ..................lm

In the 60's when these bikes were everywhere a a statement was ("Your carb problem is in diredt proportion to the miss timing of your points".
I know you have electronic ignition and wonder "have you checked the timing with a timing light while the engine is running"?
What you describe can be caused by "No Spark" on one side then it starts to fire and your slide and screws are not tuned to the other side "which had been running the engine by itself". ............lm

The timing is probably not the problem.
More the way you set the valves and carb slides.
And I use the second from the bottom slot on the needle same as HONDA did. .......lm

okay, thank you. I will go back through the steps to ensure I've done it correctly.

one more question if you wouldn't mind. would you suspect that a sticking advancer unit could be something to look at?

I'm not sure if the idle would respond to the choke if it was a stuck advancer though...

[LOUD MOUSE]

I just listened to your engine run.
Make sure your slides are not the same and they are in the correct carb.
Valves are to loose.
Both slides are adjusted to high and are not balanced. "if they are correct".
Get the air tubes off the engine and remove the tool kit so you can put your thumb on the right side slide and your middle finger on the left side slide.
Turn the slide screws out so the slides do hit bottom.
Turn the cable screws on top so they are at bottom.
Should have at least 1/4 inch slack.
Put fingers in carbs and push hard then twist the throttle and feel if both slides lift at exactly the same time.
If one is ahead of the other adjust the cable screw on top so they lift at the same time.
Turn slide screw in as you watch and look for apx. a lift of 1/16 inch then start the engine and balance the carbs.
Just to let you know this will idle just fine on one carb if the slide is high enough and the other isn't firing.
Assuming the timing is Fire at "F" and "LF" this will tune the engine. ...........lm

I'm running Charile's Place e-ignition, with the left firing at LF when at TDC of the intake stroke...then rotate 180 and the right fires at TDC on F.
What do you mean by this?. ..................lm

In the 60's when these bikes were everywhere a a statement was ("Your carb problem is in diredt proportion to the miss timing of your points".
I know you have electronic ignition and wonder "have you checked the timing with a timing light while the engine is running"?
What you describe can be caused by "No Spark" on one side then it starts to fire and your slide and screws are not tuned to the other side "which had been running the engine by itself". ............lm

The timing is probably not the problem.
More the way you set the valves and carb slides.
And I use the second from the bottom slot on the needle same as HONDA did. .......lm

okay, thank you. I will go back through the steps to ensure I've done it correctly.

one more question if you wouldn't mind. would you suspect that a sticking advancer unit could be something to look at?

I'm not sure if the idle would respond to the choke if it was a stuck advancer though...