ok, I posted about a week or so ago on a crack that was in my casting. Here it actually is, there is a pin that goes in there and holds secure. Question I have now, do I have to get a new top half or will this suffice? How much strain is on that part there?
Also, like I asked, how does it work on the title then because the engine number is on the top half.
Crack inside cover #2
Crack inside cover #2
I would clean the case bearing bore and the bearing o.d. really well, then reassemble the case halves with some Loctite Bearing Mount on the parts. If the Loctite fix doesen't work you can always look for another set of cases later.
'65 YG1
'65 CB160 '66 CL160 '66 CL77 '78 XS650 '79 GL1000 '69 T100R '68 TR6 '69 T120 '72 750 Commando my company car is a Kenworth That pin along with some clamping force from the cases keeps the bushing from spinning, keeps the slots in the bushing and top case aligned for oil flow, and sets the bushings axial position. My opinion would be that there's not a lot of stress there, but alignment would be important. I would think a weld repair might be possible, doesn't matter if it's not oil-tight on that side.
In Ohio, the titles all go by the number on the frame. -48
Thanks a lot for your advice on the crack. I am a little worried about putting this back together with anything but a new part. However, my assumption is that it has been like this awhile. I was on EBAY last night and there was another one on there with the same crack for sale. I assume this was a problem Honda must have had?
I've only personally been that far into about 1/2 dozen or so 305's and haven't seen that particular crack. Others with more experience may chime in here...
Idaho's right on track if budget is an issue. If not, it looks like those case halves are plentiful on ebay for less than $100. Seems to be only a single part number too with no variations which takes some but not all of the mystery out of an ebay purchase. Either way, be sure to use the correct pin! -48 Not that this helps your situation, J, but it would seem to me that someone may have previously tried to lift that shaft out by raising the opposite end too far, not knowing or remembering that there is a pin there. If one were to do that with just enough force, the thinner aluminum between the pin and the oil slot could crack like that. Amazing what we find in these old engines when we open them up...
Mine: '74 CB750 K4 -- Hers: '64 CA78
Had: '75 CB550 K, '79 CT90
The case is available but his has the engine number. (top case)
I've opened a couple of engines with a similar damage. I was able to clean and add J.B. Weld to keep the damaged pieces from coming loose in the future What I saw was that the cases were assembled with the steel shaft part not in correct position for the Knock Pin. The engine I just disassembled had many assembly problems from the previous "Mechanic"?. Lock nut for the right side cam loose which allowed the cam to move in and out. Crank nut, star washer, oil filter sprocket were locked under the clutch outer when they came off the crank end which destroyed a NOS Clutch Outer. Plate and gaskets were installed with the drip holes up rather than down on top of the head. Both cam rubbers were junk and the KS Pawl had a gouge rather than a Bump. Cam Chain had cut into the front of the cylinder casting 3/16" and the original chain was installed. ? All this and I found the entire Crank, Trans and Clutch were new. .........lm
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