Finally getting around to a rebuild
Finally getting around to a rebuildQuick intro:<br />I've seen this bike sitting in my grand dad's garage for better than 20 years. It was obviously parked with fuel in the cylinders and I think I was told that it had seized at some point, but it really doesn't matter at this point. I've been using parts off the bike for a chopper I'm building and have finally gotten around to tearing into the 305 engine to start this chop project. Both pistons were seized to the cylinder walls. After soaking in wd 40 and using a long 5/8 in bolt and hammer, one piston is free, but the other is holding on for dear life. The cases are apart and there is seperation between the cylinders and the top case, but this piston won't let go so I can even get started with proper tolerance checks / cleaning, etc. Anyone had something like this and have a way to bust this free? I am obviously going to replace the pistons and hone the cylinders once I start putting her back together. <br /><br />Thanks in advance<br /><br />James
Re: Finally getting around to a rebuildI use a gear puller. (comes in a kit with lots of different length bolts and looks like a chicken foot)<br />Put it on the long studs so 3 are used and place deep set 1/2 inch drive sockets over the studs and a washer then nut on each stud. (may need more than one socket per stud)<br />Put something on the piston that will stop the screw from punching a hole in it and then Crank/Hammer/Crank until the piston is out. ..........LM
RIDE IT DON'T HIDE IT!
seized pistonI am in this exact same boat. I have the steering wheel puller on the three studs and have been soaking with atf/acetone for about a month. No movement as of today. LM, when you say to hammer are you taking off the puller off or hitting the screw on the puller? Also does the phosporic acid trick work with rusted cylinders? Thanks
Re: seized pistonPlease add your location to your profile.
I hit the screw and tighten it again. I've found that with some pistons they are stuck with gunk/water/rust so bad that nothing fluid will get between the piston and sleeve. Hammer and tighten. ............lm
As the the crank is a 180 degree each time ya drive one down the other will rise.
I use 2 chicken foots and as the cylinder rises I use wood blocks and wedge the assy then go from side to side. Ya sort of pull the cylinders off the pistons. ..........lm
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