CB77 305 Sprung a Leak

Goodysnap · Post by **Goodysnap** » Sat May 19, 2012 9:06 am

I would try to identify the leak before tearing it down. Remove the starter , stator, and chain/cover. Spray out the inside with solvent/parts cleaner and blow dry. Test run and you should be able to see where its coming from. You'll save a lot of time. Especially if you put back together and it still leaks.

akpasta · Post by **akpasta** » Sat May 19, 2012 12:20 pm

Could be the seal came out a bit. I'll have a look tomorrow and report back to you all, too busy today to tear into it. Just wish there were a place in town I could actually BUY these things, parts are always a week out. Oh well.

If it's the push-rod seal; the rod was really smooth, it had come out of of its spot inside the engine when I was re-installing the cover with the new clutch cable and giving me trouble, so I pulled it out to examine and it looks really smooth, so it doesn't seem like it would have scraped the seal in any way, but we'll see. Hopefully it just popped out a bit. I read the Bill Silver article about his Superhawk that had "Breathing" problems and went through seals, maybe this is a pressure thing too.

Davo did the restoration, you probably know him, he posts on here a lot.

jensen wrote:Hi,

Most people replace the seals when restoring, but forget about the surface of the shaft.
Within a few hundred miles the seal lips are in the same state as the replaced seals.

Or maybe a seal came out a bit, it happens sometimes, but mostly also because the preparation of the seal area wasn't good.

Who did the restoration ?

Jensen

jensen · Post by **jensen** » Sat May 19, 2012 12:38 pm

Hi,

Well, if Davo did it, it has to be a coincidence.
Yes, I know him, and had the pleasure to meet him last February.

Jensen

briarpatch · Post by **briarpatch** » Sat May 19, 2012 8:34 pm

After cleaning with carb cleaner and blowing the area DRY, you might try spraying the area with foot powder from a spray can. The white powder will show you where the leak is coming from by turning dark at the leak area. THANKS - Stan

akpasta · Post by **akpasta** » Sun May 20, 2012 8:13 pm

Had a friend's going-away party last night and was a bit too hungover to manage working on the bike today... opps.

Seeing as though the bike doesn't really drip a lot when it's just sitting, it may be easiest to run the engine with the kickstart cover off, is that okay? Should I apply some pressure to the push-rod while it is idling to keep it in place? Or, am I just going to have to bite the bullet and pull the kickstart cover off, clean the area, and put it all back together, run it, then take it all apart again?

One more thing, seems like I may be taking the k/s cover off a few times to fix this leak, which will mean removing the exhaust as well. Do you have to use a new crush gasket every time you remove the exhaust? I hope not, those things are like $6/ea. I suppose it would be fine to just use the same one over and over until I'm certain the leak is fixed, not going to do any long rides until I'm sure I got it good.

rzgkane · Post by **rzgkane** » Sun May 20, 2012 10:24 pm

I suspect that when you remove the cover you will find the source of the leak obvious and be able to replace the culprit easily. Remember, though, if it is the crank or starter sprocket seal, you'll have to have a rotor pulling tool on hand or you'll be stuck.

akpasta wrote:Had a friend's going-away party last night and was a bit too hungover to manage working on the bike today... opps.

Seeing as though the bike doesn't really drip a lot when it's just sitting, it may be easiest to run the engine with the kickstart cover off, is that okay? Should I apply some pressure to the push-rod while it is idling to keep it in place? Or, am I just going to have to bite the bullet and pull the kickstart cover off, clean the area, and put it all back together, run it, then take it all apart again?

One more thing, seems like I may be taking the k/s cover off a few times to fix this leak, which will mean removing the exhaust as well. Do you have to use a new crush gasket every time you remove the exhaust? I hope not, those things are like $6/ea. I suppose it would be fine to just use the same one over and over until I'm certain the leak is fixed, not going to do any long rides until I'm sure I got it good.

hillhudson · Post by **hillhudson** » Mon May 21, 2012 12:37 am

Or a simple 17mm bolt,

That's how I pull my rotor every time. That and an electric impact driver.