48lesco wrote:Also - after the glass beading and a good wash and dry, I spray the parts with PB Blaster (like WD-40) and work it in with a paint brush. It seems to slow down the oxidation and keeps the engine looking good longer.
What finish did Honda use on their Aluminum?
I leave it alone and with the Heat/Cold over time Grays Back to original look. .........lm
glass bead casesHow do you clean the beads from the oil lines in the case. Do you plug then and hope nothing gets in? I like the GB look, but worry I won't get all the glass cleaned out,especially where the the oil line has been cross drilled. Soda blasting doesn't remove all the tarnish and stain from the cases. Am I doing something wrong? I'm using the same type siphon blast cabinet as I use with glass beads.
Re: glass bead casesAll parts are DRY when I blast them so 100 LB. will blow any media in that area out.
I put bolts in any threaded hole. ...............lm
How do these paints wear? I used a Dupicolor alum caliper paint and it looks very good. But my boot rubbed the paint off the first time I rode it for the day. That high temp paint that you have to bake sounds promising, since it is fuel proof. How does it wear.
I was thinking that bead blasting the covers and clearing them would give you a very similar look to aluminum paint. Anyone ever try that? regards, Rob Its worth a try, they could probably order it in for you. Summitt Racing are great to deal with though, with quick shipping and I would bet that your net cost would be the same and you would never have to leave the house! BTW I also got a bunch of NGK spark plug caps (NGK LD05FP - stock no. 8070) in the same order. Not quite original OEM, but they are good waterproof 5k resistors and are also somewhat hard to find at the retail shops.
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