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Removing Clutch Cover

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brewsky
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Post by brewsky » Sat May 21, 2011 12:00 pm

Glenardo wrote:Why valve grinding paste??? That's a new one for me!!

My secret tip is Type "F" auto tranny fluid. The best rusty bolt remover I had ever found. An old alignment shop (not computerized) guy told me about it years ago and it works great. I have some in a oil squirt can that I squirt a little bit on any rusted bolt/nut before removing.
It increases the "bite" of the screwdriver tip in the screw head, helping prevent it from ramping out.
Some screwdrivers also have raised ribs on the vanes for the same purpose.
66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing

CL77NOW
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Post by CL77NOW » Fri May 27, 2011 4:44 pm

all good, but the valve paste, how can carborundum dust help bite?
you want dry and clean,. for best fits.
i uses the tiny vise-grips (where it fits) after JIS bits fail.
then the drill all trick.
then in goes new allens.

method 3, ive tried them all , an want more
is the drimmel tool special carborundum tiny thin wheel (BIT) (where it fits )
cut a normal flat blade screwdriver slot in the head (not the 5mm pray tell, those we talk to !)
then off it.

been doing this since 65, and still restoring them.

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davomoto
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Post by davomoto » Fri May 27, 2011 6:15 pm

I have posted this before, but here we go again. Put just the bit on the screw. Give it a good blow with a hammer. This will shock the threads loose. Then use your impact driver. This works 99.99 % of the time.


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davomoto
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CL77NOW
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Post by CL77NOW » Fri May 27, 2011 6:44 pm

yes, the works
it's called upsetting the bolt

and when working on all cars and bikes
one has to consider all factors
loctite red or blue.
if they loctite them , you need to apply heat
so if they seem hard to get out consider loctite and the cure. (see loctite.com for details)

one more trick
you can heat any bolt and as it cools will create a tiny vacuum in side, now apply penatrating oil
and it may suck it in.

also heat a bolt a few times, will cause it to expand and shrink, this thermo cycling (no pun)
can break it free.
how is that.?

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brewsky
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Post by brewsky » Fri May 27, 2011 6:50 pm

CL77NOW wrote:all good, but the valve paste, how can carborundum dust help bite?
Don't knock it till you tried it...

With the paste on the tip and hitting the tip with a hammer first, the tip will usually stay in the slot on its own....

Although I usually use a T handle for the "feel", I also use it with an air impact sometimes.

Learned it from an old mechanic in the '60's (he was old then!)....works for me...your results may vary
66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing

deafanddiabetic
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Post by deafanddiabetic » Mon Mar 02, 2015 3:46 pm

Now that all of my screws are out, how do I remove the cover?

There isn't really a "lip" to grab or pry against since it meshes with the raised "spine" of the engine block.

I tried whacking it with a rubber hammer to come loose but she won't budge.

mike1969
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cltch cover

Post by mike1969 » Mon Mar 02, 2015 4:51 pm

A few whacks with a rubber hammer should do it. Double check that all of your screws are out.

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