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replacement muffler tip..?

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junk726
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Posts: 53
Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 4:52 am
Location: Roseville, CA

replacement muffler tip..?

Post by junk726 » Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:08 pm

Ok..so my project "66" came without that stinger muffler tip (?)..i think thats what its called;) sorry..im learnin! Anyways..my old 67 had it..and i liked the look:) so anybody know ALL the replacement parts i'd need to order to get it? I found the tip on i think one of those classic honda sites..and it sells for $200 or so?..and was hoping they were essentially the same..(now i know the 67 was welded on top pipe..but my 65/66 small brake cl77 should work?.and .i saw they offer an exhaust piece that looked like a figure 8 shape rubbery looking..possibly the exhaust tip gasket to join it to the pipes? It was like 25 bux..would these be all i need? I thank u guys for ur patience and help! Im trying to get all my pieces/parts together for my trip back to wisconsin to pick up the bike and spend a week or so deep in scrambler work gettin her up and running and ready to go!:) gonna be a blast! I was considering the electronic ignition kit i saw for sale also..(like 300 bux) but may be a nice upgrade;)? Thanx all!
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conbs
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Location: SW Idaho

Muffler

Post by conbs » Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:48 am

Consult your parts diagram.

There is a spacer that goes between the mounting ear on the muffler and the frame of the bike. I have a note that says it should be 31.4mm overall length, but I am not sure where that came from. Need the bolt, too.

Somebody (Jensen??) posted a pretty detailed process for tightening the pipes and muffler so as not to put stress on the pipes/muffler when tightening things down. Helps avoid cracks.

Good luck.

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Snakeoil
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Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2010 6:45 pm
Location: Upstate NY

Post by Snakeoil » Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:01 pm

The '67 muffler, which as you stated was welded to one of the pipes, is also rubber mounted at the rear bracket. Not sure if the '66 was rubber mounted. Probably depends on frame number. The difference would be the bracket that is part of the muffler should have a hole large enough to accept the isolation grommet.

If you look at the parts diagram. Part 10, the collar, distance, Conbs mentioned is a different part number for the separate muffler than for the welded version. The welded version began with CL77-1033482 and based on my parts book, so did the rubber mounting system.

I would ask the vendor if their repro muffler will accept the rubber mounting grommet. I've spoken to them and they suggested I put their muffler on my '67. At the time, I was not aware of the mounting differences so I never asked. If there is enough meat in the non-rubber mounting bracket, you could open up the hole to accept the isolation grommet, which is part 10A on the parts diagram in the parts book. If you use the on-line microfische, the collar, distance, Part 10 is part 9 and the rubber, RR (grommet), part 10a is part 12.

The bolt appears to be a standard metric 8mm bolt. But the length changes to accomodate for the rubber mount. The hard mount uses an 8x45 and the rubber uses an 8x58. The 13mm difference is just about right for the thickness of that grommet.

Also note that there is a error on all the diagrams I've seen so far. They show two collar,distance (part 10 or 9 depending on which diagram) and no bushing for the grommet. I believe the collar shown to the right of the grommet should be have a separate part number and is in fact, the bushing.

I tried to get new rubber grommets for my bike. The bike uses 3, one on each side of the fender and one on the exhaust. I could not get them. So, I picked up correct diameter grommets at the hardware store and then made rubber discs from an old inner tube to make up the missing length so the overall length of the grommet match the length of the metal bushing that goes into the grommet and thru which the mounting bolt passes. You'll have to look hard to see it.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do for an OEM exhaust if I end up doing a full resto on my bike. Restoring it means rechoming the fenders and finding better rims to rechrome and none of that is cheap. So I suspect that the only option I'll have is to find a decent used system or go with the repro muffler if it can be rubber mounted. But that's not in the card right now. I have a spare set of pipes that are going to get a pair of EMGO shorties put on them for now. I like the look and they should sound good without being obnoxious. Might have to add baffles to them. Again, that's a detail.

If you want me to take a picture of the parts you need for a rubber mounting system, I will. But I think the parts diagram is sufficient as long as you know that the extra collar is really a bushing that goes inside the grommet.

regards,
Rob

junk726
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Posts: 53
Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2011 4:52 am
Location: Roseville, CA

Post by junk726 » Mon Mar 14, 2011 6:30 pm

EXCELLENT information! Thank u! I understand all u are saying;) and i will contact supplier of the tip and see if there is room to get some sort of a rubber grommet in there..im sure i can make it work..im not going for a full restore..so i will somehow make a setup for some sort of a rubber isolation to frame to avoid it breaking or rattling apart! Thanks again! And im looking forward to getting her back up and running soon!

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