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Webster NY Dream Project

Want to keep a Restoration Log? Post it here! You can include photos. Suggested format: One Restoration per Thread; then keep adding your updates to the same thread...
jensen
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Location: netherlands, huizen
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Post by jensen » Sun Dec 12, 2010 2:52 pm

Hi,

Yes, I understood that laws are different from state to state, but I expected that a US driver license was valid around the US, independent where you live in the US, same with a passport.

Jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)

Kirk
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Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2007 5:47 pm
Location: Portland Oregon

Post by Kirk » Sun Dec 12, 2010 3:26 pm

Jensen,
Your license is valid in all states, but each state issues their own driver license and appropriate endorsements motorcycle, commercial driver license (Truck Driver Etc.) When you move from one state to another you turn in your old driver license for a license from the state you now live in. When I moved from Oklahoma to Oregon, I gave up my motorcycle endorsement because they wanted to charge an extra $40.00 to put in on my driver license. Every state charges different for renewal of your license and how much it costs and how long before it expires. In some states they charge you every four years to renew your license, in Oregon it is 8 years. Ironically I think it cost me $50.00 and a test to get a motorcycle endorsement back on my license. Vehicle titles are also done the same way on a state by state basis. Maine Does not require titles for motorcycles or scooters newer than 15 years or under 300cc. A simple bill of sale will suffice to get a registration. It is interesting to say the least. Here is a link to some other state regulations and how people work around them for titling vintage motorcycles.

http://scoot.net/faq/Register_a_barn_find

Thanks,
Kirk
2-1966 CB77 Projects
1965 CB77 Partsbike
1967 scrambler pile of parts
1972 Cb350

LOUD MOUSE
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Sun Dec 12, 2010 3:37 pm

The reply below is perfect.
Your answer is one is state and other is federal. ......lm
jensen wrote:Hi,

Yes, I understood that laws are different from state to state, but I expected that a US driver license was valid around the US, independent where you live in the US, same with a passport.

Jensen

Eljeef
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Posts: 458
Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2009 11:38 am
Location: Windsor, Ontario

Post by Eljeef » Sun Dec 12, 2010 9:22 pm

Hi. Welcome to the forum. I thought I'd throw a little info your way from my literature (The Bill Silver's Cd and my digitized manual for my Honda Dream. Thanks to 4Shorts and e3steve for their collaboration and generosity towards the manual.) My Buco catalogue has two fairings for the 300 Dream...The Buco Explorer Sportfairing and The Buco Town-N-Country Sportfairing. Neither are a perfect match to what you have. Your Buco Twinmaster saddlebags easily go for $400-$600 on E-bay and are hard to find; not impossible to find and scrambled over when they show up. The dry weight of the 300 Dream is 373.8 lbs according to the manual. Good luck and Cheers. Jeff H.
1964-C77 305 Dream
2002 BMW R1150GS

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bbap
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Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2010 4:52 pm
Location: Webster, NY

Post by bbap » Mon Dec 13, 2010 9:48 am

Thanks Jeff H! I new it had to be more than 350lbs! Maybe I can take a bunch of pics of the fairing in the days to come to see if it has any historical value...

Day 3: Carburetor / Carberator / Carburador - how 'bout Vergaser!
One of the most incorrectly spelled word in the world of transportation is the word Carburetor. If you are looking on "Evil bay" or Ebay for a component that fits on a "carb", then you better spell it about five different ways or you may miss out. Why can't we all just agree up on the correct spelling? I think I will call it a "Vergaser". Sounds more important and more profound anyway. While the spelling can be illusive, the actual function can be even more so. There are so many little hidden passageways, that when sealed off from many years of inattention, can and absolutely will, bewilder the mechanic reconstructionist. Basically, it must be CLEAN. Not only does it need to look clean, you have got to be able to use it as a straw to drink out of it if stranded on a desert island. Every passageway, every jet, every needle, the gaskets the seats, the slides and the body must be cleansed of all impurities A baptism of "Vergaser cleaner" will help, but compressed Air, Q-tips and the ubiquitus Toothbrush must be pressed into action.

Before the bath of a lifetime:
Image
Carburetor before by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

After:
Image
Carburetor after by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

It is necessary to remove both jets from the Keihin C77 B. Mine came out surprisingly easy. One of the little hints on removing the Idle circuit jet is to insure you have the correct side screwdriver the FIRST time. Not the 2nd time. You often only get one shot at this. It's made of of brass. Brass is very maleable. It is very easy to mess up and sometimes those jets have been installed 48 years ago. Soak in a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster for about 1/2 day. Grab the correct screwdriver and test fit it. Clamp your left hand around the Vergaser and apply pressure with the screwdriver in the right and bear down firmly. Slowly turn CCW (Counter-clock-wise) and hopefully, you will hear the little note of salvation - a click. Slowly back the screw out, clean thoroughly and reassemble. Minewas a #35 (tough to read though as my eyes are not 21 years old anymore). Remove the Main jet with a socket or closed end wrench. This one usually comes out fine. Mine was a #135 I believe.

What did I find? A very usable and generally clean Vergaser. Yup, had to clean it thoroughly and passageways were all blocked, but not as bad as I had expected. I call that a win! Check out that 'O-ring" and bowl gasket - they be shot~! I like shinny things and making them shinny...

Suggestions on what task to take on next? Yes, I'm avoiding the "Elephant-in-the-room" (Engine Removal). Sooooo mannnny wiressssss :)

Sascha
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Location: Toronto, Canada

Post by Sascha » Thu Dec 23, 2010 8:45 am

Now that you are putting your carb back together, make sure the float angle is set right or she is going to have a REALLY hard time starting and or drowned herself in fuel - I learned that the hard way! ;)

Looking good man...

-Sascha

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bbap
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Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2010 4:52 pm
Location: Webster, NY

Post by bbap » Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:40 am

Day 4: Light Lifting / Heavy Lifting

Thanks Sasha, I learned that from your post and will certainly do just that.

It's been a little chaotic around the place these last few days, but I have not been sitting on my hands. Since the Carburetor what have I done?
1. Fuel Petcock. All looks well, but will need a rebuild kit for sure. Pretty gooey for sure.
2. I removed many of the bits and pieces that I thought might get in the way of removing the motor
Everything I removed was in slightly rusty or better condition.
3. Electrics all disconnected. Hopefully, I will remember the color coding: Red-Red / Blue-blue etc. Thank you for making that an easy chore!
4. headlight removed - all looks well. Bulb looks intact. I was thinking of using it as a target for my .22 at 100 yards with a battery connected to it! Kidding - Yes, I've read the posts....difficult to find - it will be cherished and saved.
4. Kickstand (side stand) removed - major pitting. Used the "electrolysis" method for rush removal for 20 hours of soaking time. I've done it before with good successs - worked well. Shot it with some primer and dull alum., paint so to stop the cancer.

Here are some pics of the bits and pieces removed:

Image
Partial Bits by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

- Yes, I bag a lot of stuff and label them. It may be months before they find there way back to a Honda and Steve's memory is NOT what it used to be....

Then it happened - - Courage! (and a slow day at work)...Yupper, Engine Removal. Off with the top hanger bolts. I checked these very carefully from L.M.'s post to me regarding the engine being pretty far off on the numbers vs., the frame, but I gotta believe it was original to the bike. The paint was just too good and undisturbed. The fasteners had no hint of rounding either.
Engine: CA77E - 3161XX
Frame: CA78 - 3111XX
Off with the rears and with trememdous strength I was able to hoist the massive Japanese motor from ground level to working level. My back is just fine, but thanks for askin'.
Pictures from benchtop:
Image
Motor finally exposed by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

Image
Motor is benched for the season by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

Why did I take the engine out you may ask?
A: I always do, it's just part of the process. Also, this puppy is Stuck.
What have a learned about a Honda 305 this week?
A: That a Honda 305 has more Chain on it then an incarerated Night of the Round Table. How many chains have I uncovered - (5) so far - are there more lurking in the carcass?

What have you learned about Steve this week?
A: He is strong like bull and that he brush's his teeth and keeps the brush's

What do I need to learn next week?
A: How to remove the Top end. I'm feeling none too courageous about that!

What did I find stuck in the drive chain wear pad while removing the drive chain?
A: .22 cal., hollow tip live ammunition (one bullet). It even has wear on it from the chain rubbing it :) I gotta keep it!
Image
100_3522 by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

I used to fish a lot when I was younger and for some reason this just reminded me of a gutted fish:
Image
Reminds me of a gutted fish by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

Merry Christmas to all!
Comments welcome and appreciated!
CA78 - 3111XX - Frame
CA77E - 3161XX - Engine

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