Rob, remove the seal, clean out well, and you'll see the clip. Carefull when removing, as there will be shims, very thin, top and or bottom, been a while can't remember. Once that's all apart, remove the tiny flat head screw, tap the gear from the open end, and it will partially push the brass cap off. Prize it the rest of the way off, and then you can remove the gear as well. Once again, shims, go slowly and note where they were.
Davo
CL77 Speedo Drive and CableDrive came apart easily with a little heat to free up the seal.
For those who might be asking in the future, here's a step by step and photos of the parts. 1. Warm the housing with a heat gun or torch (be careful not to over heat) to allow the seal to be removed without damage. Pry seal with screwdriver or similar, not forcing. Heat the housing so it is not too hot to hold and let it heat soak. This will loosen up the old grease that holding the seal in place. Light pressure is all that is needed once the heat has done it's job. Photo 1 shows the assembly with the seal removed exposing the drive gear. Grease has been cleaned out here. 2. With the seal out, swab out the old grease or scoop out with a small screwdriver or spatula until you can see the drive gear and the snap ring that holds it in. Photo 2 shows the snap ring. Also notice the silver thrust washer on top of the drive gear. 3. Remove the snap ring and then turn the assembly upside down and tap on counter to drop out the drive gear. Beneath the drive gear will be thin shim or shims. Mine appeared to be a single shim until I handled them and one slid apart to become two. 4. That is as far as you need to go if the grease looks decent and the unit is not full of grit or crud. Swab out the rest of the grease and with a small screw driver or similar scoop the grease out of the driven gear which is still in the housing. Be gentle here as the gear is brass. Rotate the gear and clean out each tooth. Rub the grease between your fingers. If there is no grit, you do not need to clean the assembly in solvent. Driven gear is shown in Photo 5. 5. Remove the Phillips head screw from the housing and clean out any old grease. Push and old grease down into the housing with a piece of twisted paper towel or similar and scoop it out. This grease hole is shown in Photo 6. 6. Now clean the removed parts. The drive gear is shown in Photos 3 and 4. Note the grease grooves in both the back face of the gear and the inner diameter. Clean these grooves out well. Clean the shims, thrust washer and snap ring and set aside. Don't forget to clean the seal if being reused. 7. With everything clean, lube the housing with new grease. Using a soft plastic patula or your fingers, grease the driven gear, making sure to force grease forward and aft of the gear itself. That is where the gear bearings are. You cannot pump grease into that area from the cable side, I tried. So it needs to be put in there from the inside of the housing. Then as you install parts, grease them and put them in place. The drive gear needs to have the teeth greased, as well as the back and ID grease grooves. Fill all the grooves and teeth with grease. 8. Photo 7 shows the internal parts in the order of assembly, from top to bottom. From the top, install the shims, then the drive gear with the lugs facing out, then the thrust washer and lastly the snap ring. 9. Now fill the housing with grease and force it into any empty space with your fingers. 10. Fill the back of the seal, behind the lips with grease. Then using finger pressure, press the seal into place in the housing. Smear a little more grease into the housing. Install the greasing screw back into it's hole and tighten. 11. Wipe the housing clean, wrap it in a clean paper towel or put it in a clean plastic bag and set it aside until you are ready to install it in the wheel. When you do, make sure you feel for the two drive lugs to engage the two mating slots in the wheel. When I took mine apart I tried to remove the brass end plug from the housing. The set screw removed easily but the plug was not going to budge. I tried heat and hitting the housing on the bench trying to break it free with inertia. I did not want to put pliers on it and gouge up a perfect plug. So, I quit and put the set screw back in place. If your grease is in decent shape and there is no grit inside, I think it is fair to say that you don't have to remove the plug. I also would not clean out the entire housing with solvent unless it is really filthy inside. The grease you cannot get out will help lube the driven gear bearings. It's hard to say how much new grease you can get in there by pressing with your fingers. If others have other suggestions or corrections to this, please advise. Hope you find this helpful. regards, Rob
I've never taken this assembly apart as I have been able to clean it (C/CB/CL92/77) as a unit then press grease into it.
To me it's a lot of unnecessary work for a part which I have yet to find any problem with. ..............lm
After getting it apart, I would tend to agree, LM. It is much more robust than some of the Brit drives or later Japanese drives I've seen with plastic parts.
But some folks like to take everything apart so I thought I'd share what I learned. Plus being a pretty robust design, it's hard to screw it up. So for newbies who are nervous about diving into something like an engine, can use a simple assembly like this to test their mechanical skills and build some confidence to move onto more complicated assemblies. Plus you don't know what you don't know. If you are unaware that an assembly is bullet proof, inspecting it gives you piece of mind. I'm thinking of newbies to these bike, not the seasoned guys. regards, Rob
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