Cylinder head removalCylinder head removalWhen I bought my first Honda Dream the owner threw in an old seized up engine. Now I'm trying to get it apart just to see what's inside it. I didn't get very far. The cylinder head is held onto the base of the motor with the timing chain. Can anybody explain how I get the chain off?
Seeing as how the motor is seized, I'm assuming it's not in a position where you can see the master link. If that's the case, you're going to have to cut it. A dremel tool with a cut off wheel should do nicely. Use some thin wire, like picture frame hanging wire, to tie the 2 sides of the chain so they won't fall into the crank case when it seperates. I use the intake and exhaust studs to tie them to, loosely enough so there's enough slack to reach between the head and cylinder when you lift it off. That way you can grab the chain and pull it clear. Twist the wire loosely around the stud so it will slip off when you pull it, and tightly arond the chain so it won't. After you've pulled it through and lifted off the head, you can tie the 2 ends of the wire together. It won't matter now if it drops in, as long as the wires stick up far enough for you to grab them. Now you can work on tapping the piston heads with a piece of wood and a hammer to free them up. Spray in some penetrating oil if needed.
We are still assuming the pistons are seized in the cylinder, and it's not a bottom end problem. If the cylinder slips off easily, you've got other problems and the crank case will have to be opened.If that's the case, don't worry about dropping the chain anymore. If it's just the top end seized, then you can hone, bore, or replace the cylinder and rings or pistons as required. As long as the crank spins freely, you can use the old chain to thread the new one around the crank, so don't remove it until the cylinder and head are back in place! Don't forget to tie wire to the back end of the new chain, and carefully tie wire to the lead end after you thread it through and before you disconnect the old one. Once you've got you're crank and cam aligned, carefully place the master link on. If you're smart, you'll tie wires to the master link parts too! You don't want to know how much trouble it is, if you drop any of those things down the cylinder, so don't remove any of your wires until the clip is secure on the chain. Good luck, and Have fun! Joe
I'm in the same position as Mustanger. However, I noticed in the parts manual that the cam is in two pieces, so I removed both of the cam end covers (actual name escapes me and my manual is three floors away) and tried to separate the two halves.
I had no luck in budging either half of the cam, or really even determining how to bring about their separation. My questions are: 1.) Am I pursuing a lost cause in attempting this solution? (once I separate the cam, I lower the cam gear a few inches, slacken the chain, move it hand-over-hand until the master link appears) 2.) If I'm wasting my time in trying the above solution, is cutting the chain -- and later replacing it -- or "removing the oil pump and hoping" my only two solutions? BTW: I'm ordering Bill Silver's engine book and restoration book. Are you tearing the whole engine apart?I was able to get at the master link by taking off the cam chain tensioner and I was able to get the chain apart.I was not worried about dropping anything in the case since the engine was being stripped for parts anyway.I also cut a link out to get another seized engine apart.
Thanks for the reply. My goal is to get the engine unstuck. After reading some troubleshooting info, and testing the crankshaft, I believe the pistons are frozen.
Aside from getting the engine unstuck, I want to get the top end off to paint it. The bottom end I'd like to polish; I'm undecided whether it's necessary to separate the crankcase, or if I'll do it as one piece. I've taken the cam chain tensioner off already...no master link in sight. Right now, cutting the chain seems the best option. However, can I cut a wide link from the chain w/a Dremel and replace it with a new master link upon reassembly? In other words, why buy a completely new chain ($30.00+) if the old one is fine?
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