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brewsky
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Post by brewsky » Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:42 am

gramey7 wrote:Jensen,
I don't think anyone can make fun of your screwdriver stethoscope. My father taught me that about 40 years ago and it does work. He also taught me to use book matches ( the "close cover before striking" kind) as a point gap gage.
George
And how to set the timing with the celophane cigarette pack cover?
66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing

e3steve
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Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:49 am

brewsky wrote:
gramey7 wrote:Jensen,
I don't think anyone can make fun of your screwdriver stethoscope. My father taught me that about 40 years ago and it does work. He also taught me to use book matches ( the "close cover before striking" kind) as a point gap gage.
George
And how to set the timing with the celophane cigarette pack cover?
Christ, I'd forgotten that one! Just an edge between the (refaced) contacts, blow gently whilst tweaking the backplate.

I made my first testlamp from a discarded, all-plastic instrument lampholder -- the type that uses the 4-Watt wedge-based lamps -- whilst playing with my first CB77. My first bike, a Villiers-engined James Captain, had a magneto so a testlamp was useless.

nander
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Location: Los Angeles, California

Post by nander » Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:06 pm

LOUD MOUSE wrote:Did I miss if ya tried to turn the sprocket on the """"""starter motor""""""""?
Use a punch near the edge of the screw a couple of spots. ...lm
Yes I did. And on both starter motors I have, I was unable to turn that little sprocket by hand -- so I assumed that was the normal condition of them. But, judging by e3steve's experience, it looks as though they should turn.

Now, did the unstaked screw cause the sprocket to wobble, which in turn damaged the starter motor, OR did a bad starter motor induce the screw to come loose?

And, either way, is this the root cause of the motor "seizure" I experienced? And, Jensen, if the starter motor was causing the problem, I can see how I could have interpreted the sound of it's resistance to turn as emanating from the area of the oil spinner!

Thanks everyone, I feel like we're getting somewhere.
nander

e3steve
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Post by e3steve » Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:12 pm

nander wrote:
LOUD MOUSE wrote:Did I miss if ya tried to turn the sprocket on the """"""starter motor""""""""?
Use a punch near the edge of the screw a couple of spots. ...lm
Yes I did. And on both starter motors I have, I was unable to turn that little sprocket by hand -- so I assumed that was the normal condition of them. But, judging by e3steve's experience, it looks as though they should turn.

Now, did the unstaked screw cause the sprocket to wobble, which in turn damaged the starter motor, OR did a bad starter motor induce the screw to come loose?

And, either way, is this the root cause of the motor "seizure" I experienced? And, Jensen, if the starter motor was causing the problem, I can see how I could have interpreted the sound of it's resistance to turn as emanating from the area of the oil spinner!

Thanks everyone, I feel like we're getting somewhere.
nander
Probably.

Nope.

The starter motor is a piece-o'-piss to disassemble, but take off the sun & planets gearbox (3 screws, sprocket end) first and see if the motor spins with your fingers via the exposed pinion.
Last edited by e3steve on Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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brewsky
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 5:21 am
Location: Princeton, WV

Post by brewsky » Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:15 pm

e3steve wrote:
brewsky wrote:
gramey7 wrote:Jensen,
I don't think anyone can make fun of your screwdriver stethoscope. My father taught me that about 40 years ago and it does work. He also taught me to use book matches ( the "close cover before striking" kind) as a point gap gage.
George
And how to set the timing with the celophane cigarette pack cover?
Christ, I'd forgotten that one! Just an edge between the (refaced) contacts, blow gently whilst tweaking the backplate.

I made my first testlamp from a discarded, all-plastic instrument lampholder -- the type that uses the 4-Watt wedge-based lamps -- whilst playing with my first CB77. My first bike, a Villiers-engined James Captain, had a magneto so a testlamp was useless.
Not heard of that procedure!
Mine was ...fully insert paper and gently tug while tweaking the rotor, and when it breaks loose....bingo!

First testlamp was a flashlight with leads connected to the switch. When light goes off...bingo.

Then came the ohm-meter with buzzer (hi tech)!

Then a real timing light!!! (higher tech)!

Ask a modern day mechanic where his timing light is and see what happens!
66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing

e3steve
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Posts: 2601
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:38 pm
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Post by e3steve » Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:20 pm

brewsky wrote:
e3steve wrote:
brewsky wrote:
gramey7 wrote:Jensen,
I don't think anyone can make fun of your screwdriver stethoscope. My father taught me that about 40 years ago and it does work. He also taught me to use book matches ( the "close cover before striking" kind) as a point gap gage.
George
And how to set the timing with the celophane cigarette pack cover?
Christ, I'd forgotten that one! Just an edge between the (refaced) contacts, blow gently whilst tweaking the backplate.

I made my first testlamp from a discarded, all-plastic instrument lampholder -- the type that uses the 4-Watt wedge-based lamps -- whilst playing with my first CB77. My first bike, a Villiers-engined James Captain, had a magneto so a testlamp was useless.
............... Ask a modern day mechanic where his timing light is and see what happens!
We're all posting on this forum via one, I expect!

cknight
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Posts: 427
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2006 3:55 pm
Location: Daytona Beach, FL

Post by cknight » Wed Oct 20, 2010 2:44 pm

And don't forget passing a white business card between the points to clean them, after sanding them with 600 grit paper. Chase

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