I do not understand how to remove the rotor

[e3steve]

...to build, Jensen; it'll keep you occupied for a while!

On a more serious note: see if you can get a copy of October's Classic Bike mag -- pic of a head-on BMW R90S on the front cover; there's a great article on modern classics, the lead story of which surrounds the 400/Four. Excellent!

BTW: I have to totally agree that your (edited-in) final paragraph about using the filter wrench makes perfect sense, just placing the force upon the rotor and not 'taking up slack' in the entire drivetrain. I concede to your better method.

But mine still works!

[jensen]

Hi Steve,

Mr M.C. Escher sure did a nice job (he was Dutch too, by the way).

I don't see your point of criticism and I feel offended (a little), because I gave a cheap alternative (19;95 USD or cheaper).

I'm working on solutions here for guys with limited experience/tool resources/budget and knowledge; not a degree in physics and a fully equipped workshop.

Indeed, I buy a tool for a certain job, and that involves money. People start wrenching on their bikes to save money, but that doesn’t mean that people don’t need a budget. A hydraulic press is an expensive tool, and that it is not in everybody’s workshop, I realize that, but that is not the point. It’s “a” method, just like methods of others.

One reason of the existence of this forum is that many people want to learn how things can be done “he correct way”, without destroying parts or engines. In the end it saves money, doing things “the correct way”.

A good "bad" example is the work of Joel (wrenchrust) on his thread “Noob, just getting started on a 67 CL77” . Knowledge and experience is a way to prevent damage, not something to go funny about.

Joel is very honest to show his “mistake” on the forum, I bet many mistakes like he made are not showed on the forum, and that’s a pity, because others will learn how you can damage things easily.
Showing how NOT to do things is great knowledge too, because it takes (at least one) costly experience to gather that information. Same as the use of valves from Apex cycle in the thread of Matt Bell.

Steve, did I ever made fun about your occupation your origin, view at things or your knowledge ? I, for one, appreciate your input in the electrical items as a specialist, and I’m happy to have a specialist in electronics a board, and I think many people on the forum share that point of view.

Jensen

BTW I owned this tool for many years and I use it in many applications. It can hold round greasy oily things like rotors, clutches, gears, cranks, bearings, etc.

[e3steve]

One day I'm sure we'll meet, and when we do I'm gonna tie your shoelaces together. If you're (a little) offended then either

• You have much time on your hands
  You're still too serious

I conceded, your method is better. But lighten up!

I'm not grizzling (I'm cool) here.

My method still works!!

[jensen]

Hi Steve,

I take the time to reply on the Forum, it's all about priorities in coffee and lunch breaks.
And when working on these bikes, I do these things only once occasionally, accept for tires, oil filters, chain / sprockets and carb synchronization / gas analyses on the dyno.

I don't like to spend time in the workshop, I like to ride it without problems and get a bike which is reliable.

Too serious ? I'm not the judge about that, the bikes are.

I'll remember to wear boots, when riding to Spain.

Jensen

[teazer]

Steve, that probably works fine, but my preferred method is to simply shock the bolt.

If it has been overtightened or is corroded in place, even a long breaker bar sometimes does not work. What always works for me is a smart tap with a big (2lb) hammer. I use a 12" breaker bar and simply smack it hard to crack the threads.

An air wrench is probably better but mine is pretty gutless and doesn't always get the job done, but a big "knockometer" works every time. It may take half a dozen blows, but it will come loose.

[Wilf]

Steve, were you serious in offering your method of restoring the lost magnetism of a rotor? If so, please explain why it works---it's perplexing me!

As a precaution, I've already tied my shoelaces together; however, I do have things to do today so a quick response would be helpful. ;)

Wilf

[e3steve]

Steve, were you serious in offering your method of restoring the lost magnetism of a rotor? If so, please explain why it works---it's perplexing me!

As a precaution, I've already tied my shoelaces together; however, I do have things to do today so a quick response would be helpful. ;)

Wilf

Oh, how I wish it were April 1st! Wilf, I'm not certain if you just walked smack-bang into my humourwall or I did the same into yours!