Noob, just getting started on a 67 CL77

[e3steve]

My thoughts here:

• Don't worry about the surface rust upon the (outside) end of the sprocket splines*
  Ignore the chip marks on the gear dogs in your pic #4**
  Do check the 'squared' (flat) end of the lifter rod for a scribe mark from the 8x21x6 oil lip seal***

But:

Read, re-read and then read again and digest Bill's Techknuckle pages from p92-100!

• *Do clean the outer diameter of the shaft and apply a turn of thin, brown packing-case tape to the spline when fitting the seal so as not to damage the inner lip of the seal
  **Do get the transmission shimming right (then you'll only need to do it once!); note that the dogs aren't square castellations, but have a slight inward taper to maintain engagement; consider 'X'-ing the gears. 'Shimming the tranny' -- a particularly popular past-time in Bangkok! -- is essential (p100)
  ***If there's a groove, deep enough to feel with a fingernail, circumventing the lifter rod about 15mm from the flat end, try to obtain a NOS rod on eBay -- it will almost certainly leak in use. If you can't get a better or NOS rod, consider having the Clutch Lifter Piece (13, p70) flange machined by about 1mm so that the lifter rod will end up intruding through the seal slightly more, thus allowing the seal to sit in a different place.

Also, do replace the k/s pawl, spring, pushrod and, preferably shaft (19, 20, 21 & 22, p67); all crop up, from time to time, on eBay. It's a long way back into the tranny if the k/s starts to slip, and especially considering you'll have no electric starter. Consider replacing ALL bushings; try Forum Member FAST FRED -- he's a real gem for some NOS parts.

[houseowax]

Backing up a bit here:

Now, I would like to learn how to fix dents, at this point, I think I'm going to get new ones and in my off time, while waiting for machining, chrome, powder coating, etc. I'll play around with fixing the ears I have. Maybe I can find a forum that deals with... I don't know what you'd call the art of fixing dents??? Autodody? Sheetmetal?

I think it's called metalshaping and/or panel beating and there's an informative site here:

http://metalshapers.org/tips/covell/

Watched some YouTube vids too, especially one with a fella from NZ doing some work in his garage on an old Lambretta. I'm keen to learn some basic skills and eventually take the crunch out of my CA77 fender flare.

[conbs]

I think the groove in a clutch rod - if not too deep - could be taken out with a strip of emory cloth.

This is a trick I have used to smooth out other round surfaces the need a tight and smooth contact area. I have used it in other situations involiving oil seals with good results. I tried it on a couple of clutch rods I have and it seemed to work, though the engine has not run so I don't have a final test. I am confident enough that I am putting the motor together using a repaired rod.

Stand the clutch rod up, grooved end up and gently but firmly clamp it in a vice. Tear off a strip of emory cloth about 12 to 15 inches long. I think I used 400 grit, but it might have been a little more coarse. Wrap the emory cloth (grit side in) around the far side of the the rod where the groove is, bring the ends about 2 inches apart. Pull the emory cloth snug against the rod and pull the ends back and forth so the grit sands the groove out. Keep an eye on your progress. Don't saw in one place too much that you start getting things out of round. Rotate the rod 180 degrees to get to the other side of the groove. Depending on the depth of the groove you might want to rotate the rod 90 dgrees and then 180 degrees again. Continue until the groove is gone and you have a smooth surface.

You will need to use a new seal (which you were going to replace anyway) but as long as the diameter of the rod stays round and big enough to make a decent seal (which it should), the rod should work fine.

Anyone else ever try this?

[conbs]

I think the groove in a clutch rod - if not too deep - could be taken out with a strip of emory cloth.

This is a trick I have used to smooth out other round surfaces the need a tight and smooth contact area. I have used it in other situations involiving oil seals with good results. I tried it on a couple of clutch rods I have and it seemed to work, though the engine has not run so I don't have a final test. I am confident enough that I am putting the motor together using a repaired rod.

Stand the clutch rod up, grooved end up and gently but firmly clamp it in a vice. Tear off a strip of emory cloth about 12 to 15 inches long. I think I used 400 grit, but it might have been a little more coarse. Wrap the emory cloth (grit side in) around the far side of the the rod where the groove is, bring the ends about 2 inches apart. Pull the emory cloth snug against the rod and pull the ends back and forth so the grit sands the groove out. Keep an eye on your progress. Don't saw in one place too much that you start getting things out of round. Rotate the rod 180 degrees to get to the other side of the groove. Depending on the depth of the groove you might want to rotate the rod 90 dgrees and then 180 degrees again. Continue until the groove is gone and you have a smooth surface.

You will need to use a new seal (which you were going to replace anyway) but as long as the diameter of the rod stays round and big enough to make a decent seal (which it should), the rod should work fine.

Anyone else ever try this?

[davomoto]

I chuck it up in my drill press, and use 400 grit paper, then OOOO steell wool, works great.

[jensen]

Hi,

I weld it up and then grind it within 0.01 mm to spec. No, just kidding.
If wear is just too bad, I make another one from standard rod (hardened and grinded).

Jensen

[WrenchRust]

I've emersed myself in Techknuckles for the last couple of days. Right now I'm having trouble learning all the part names (they don't always match up, i.e. I think "clutch lifter rod" is referred to as the "clutch pushrod" or sometimes simply as the "pushrod") I've read through pgs 92-100 a couple times and I'm re-reading it right now.

Now, about the groove in the lifter rod, I can't feel one. Not even slightly... I understand that it would be on the oil seal side, I can even see some dis-coloring where the seal sits, but I can't feel a groove.

Still wondering about the grooves in the top hat looking bushing at the pawl end of the kick starter... And about the groove in the one fork shifter