Before you toss your wiring harness, my guess is it is only the outer protective sheating that is brittle and the wires and insulation are fine. You can order new silver sheathing for the harness. You might not be able to replace it all, but I would suggest you check out the actual harness before you spend money.
regards,
Rob
Noob, just getting started on a 67 CL77Avoid the cheap pistons, and either go with the wisecos from Classic, or origional Honda pistons. You'll want to pull at least the head off, and see if you alredy have oversize pistons so you'll know what size to purchase. I'd recomend a new cam chain as well. These guys sell an awsome stainless bolt kit for the engine, if you don't mind having allen heads to replace the phillips heads that are origional.
http://www.mginproducts.com/screw%20kits.htm davomoto
64 CB77 63-7 CB77 Cafe' 67 CL77 64 CL72 66 CL77 big bore flat tracker Many others! My opinion - others may vary.
I'd keep the wiring harness unless the connectors are butchered or the individual wires are damaged. Order a set of oversized pistons and rings (stock OEM type not race kit) and have the barrels bored to match IF the bores are rusty or worn. You need to remove the barrels and inspect and measure the bores. Rebuild the carbs, but order new OEM jets rather than a rebuild kit. The jets and needles in kits tend not to be suitable. New gaskets and oil seals - Yes Cam chain will probably need to be replaced rebuild the head or have it rebuilt. Loud Mouse offers a head rebuild service that gets rave recommendations here.
Dave,
The risk of using allen heads is over-torquing, if the philips heads are worn, replace (original replacement at Honda, just order the part number, this system never failed me). It's also a matter of taste, I suppose. Re-plate the rest, if necessary. Stainless steel and the aluminum-zinc alloy of the cases are cousing electrical corrosion, and aluminum will solve (in a humid environment) at the end. Use zinc plates bolts, then the zinc will solve at last, bu that easy to re plate. Always use copper grease for every bolt on this bike. Remember that the power of a four stroke is made in the cylinder head, next to that, it's the most vulnerable piece of technique of this Honda, this should be the first thing to look at, and spend your money on, then the rest. If the head is all right, then go for the pistons and rings. On ebay patience = affordable, so take your time, when you don't have the money. Don't forget to look at the transmission too, Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
I don't agree; using a screwdriver-type handle with Allen bits, or a tee-handled Allen driver (as the Honda factory appear to have done with their Phillips drivers -- just scan the Shop Manual pics) makes no difference to the torque that the user can apply. I agree with that observation, though. Again, I agree, but I have yet to see any dissimilar-metal corrosion on my motor, and all my fixings are Allen-head stainless. Not necessarily; once again: personal taste. Copper grease is a good call, as is Ultra Safety Systems' "Tef-Gel", when assembling with dissimilar metals.
Hi Steve,
I said the risk is over-torquing, in normal circumstances one uses a screwdriver for philips screws and an allen key for allen screws. The arm of the allen key is much longer, therefor the risk of over torquing much higher. I come across a lot of damage on old engine cases, and I noticed more damage on engines build with allen screws (steel or stainless). Steve, can you please explain why the zinc of zinc plated bolts disappears in a few years, especially on the part what goes in the case (thread ) ?. If moister comes between a zinc plated bolt and a aluminum case the zinc will turn into a white dust, and is called zinc-oxide, and is a result of this oxidation reaction. With a stainless bolt (allen or philips), you don't see the white dust but the thread will be weakened by oxidation, to the point where helicoils get necessary. I agree, there are more products on the market with the same effect. But the copper grease is widely available and cheap, therefor I mentioned it. Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
that's some great info everyone has giving, I really like all the info on the different metals and their reaction to each other. I'll remember that when I'm putting it back together.
So, today I got the engine out of the bike. And I got the jugs off. I wish I knew what I was looking at. Some things I can tell, there was a lot of rusty oil in the cylinders. The cylinders barrels looked ok. The valves looked rusty. The right Piston didn't have any rings at all. Tomorrow I'll clean everything up and take some pictures. We'll see if you guys spot anything. So how do I measure the cylinder bore? What tool do I use? Thanks, Joel
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