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CB77 Valve Guides

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MBellRacing
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CB77 Valve Guides

Post by MBellRacing » Tue Jul 06, 2010 2:00 pm

Anybody have a good source for all the bits required for the CB77 as far as valve retaining and sealing (guides)? I need these VERY quickly. Thanks!

MBellRacing
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Post by MBellRacing » Tue Jul 06, 2010 4:00 pm

...nevermind. Ohio cycle has them all but doesn't show them in the parts list. If anybody is interested in the future:

CB77 Valve Keeper (2 per valve, 8 per engine): 14781-253-010 --- $2.50 ea.
CB77 Intake Valve Guide (1 per valve, 2 per engine): 12021-268-000 --- $11.00 ea.
CB77 Exhaust Valve Guide (1 per valve, 2 per engine): 12023-259-000 --- $12.00 ea.

Bike Bandit has the guide rings as well for a couple bucks.

teazer
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Post by teazer » Tue Jul 06, 2010 5:37 pm

You may want to check with LM to see if they need to be reamed to size after fitting. I can't remember if OEM ones do or not.

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davomoto
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Post by davomoto » Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:15 pm

Good point Teazer! I have changed them in smaller bore Hondas, and did have to ream them. I was able to borrow the ream from my local Honda dealer.
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jensen
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Post by jensen » Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:16 am

Hi,

Yes, you have to ream them after installation.
How did you install the guides ?

Jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)

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davomoto
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Post by davomoto » Wed Jul 07, 2010 8:52 pm

Jensen, I borrowed the instalation tool as well. Guides in the freezer, head in the oven, and voila!
davomoto
64 CB77
63-7 CB77 Cafe'
67 CL77
64 CL72
66 CL77 big bore flat tracker
Many others!

jensen
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Post by jensen » Thu Jul 08, 2010 12:34 am

Hi,

Yes, that's the way to go Dave. Instead of the freezer, I use a small peltier cooler, it will bring the temperature down to -70 to -80 degrees Celsius, but a freezer will do.

If you want to be sure that everything is aligned perfect (guide, valve, valve seat), you have to cut the seats after installing the guides and reamed them.

Ream the valves a day after pressing them into the head, and make sure everything (and that includes the reamer) is on a temperature of 18 to 20 degrees Celsius (room temperature).

Before installing the valve, make sure the stem is straight within 0.01 - 0.02 mm, if not, don't use it.
If the valve is bend a little, there's a chance that the valve sticks in the guides and touches the piston, especially when the guide is new, and not aligned perfectly.

I always walk this way, but that doesn't mean that another method is not good. It's expensive, when you can't do it yourself, and not always needed.

Sometimes I maybe loose the perspective of the hobby bike, as Ed pointed out all to clearly.
I use these bikes as a daily rider. A modern (new) bike will set you back 5.000 to 15.000 Euro, if I want a classic CB72 as a daily rider, I can spend that kind of money on a CB72, and things are in perspective.

BTW, a good reamer will set you back a lot of $$, but if you're into these bikes, and do it more often, it's worth the money (maybe overdone, but a reamer should always turn in one direction (clockwise in most cases) while reaming and pulling it back, and never ever turn it the other way.

The reason for this is that the small particles of metal will ruin the surface when the reamer is turned the other way.

If you cut a thread, it's the other way around, turn it clockwise one or two turns, and than a half to a full turn anti clockwise to brake the metal particles.

Always use a a good thread cutter set (don't know the English word for it) and preferably a set with 3 cutters. Always use a cutter oil, especially in aluminum. Always try to place the cutter straight in the object, preferable with a help of a 90 degree steel angle.

Jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)

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