Hi Scott,
You know my preferred method :
Get it on a dyno with gas analyser, 50 to 100 USD, and you know it all.
Jensen
1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go
Tell ya what feller.
If ya don't like this message as far as I'm concerned ya can get over it cause the folks I talk to day after day don't have the $$$ or need to spend/waste when with patience and help from others they can/will teach themselves and learn what/how to work on these and other bikes. I haven't melted, burned, broken seized any pistons in all the years I've been riding and tuning the 250/305 HONDA engines. (1963 to present and NO forum to help those early years) How have I learned to tune these engines. Read all the info I can find and discuss with others what/how they tune their engines. I (speaking for myself and others I think) don't have 2 things which is required to "Just Go Do A Dyno Run". A Dyno location closer than 100 miles and the $$$ to pay for it. There are those on this forum who do have a limited income and more time to learn than $$$ to spend on something which they can do on their own with help/advise from this forum for free. Another thing. Torque a cover Screw? You Bet. When ya get a chance Scott please call me about the Ding in the cover and I'll offer a simple solution (30 seconds) to fix that area of the cover. I'd hate to share such a simple fix after reading the previous time consuming/slow and to me totally un-necessary process for that part ya have there. KISS fellers!. ...........lm
LM,
There's no reason to get rude here or loose your temper, so early in the morning, think about your health. I see many threads in aluminum ruined by people who think tight is tight, and that's mostly overtightened. Too many screwed-up threads, screwed up bolts, not using the right tools, etc. A torque wrench helps you to get the feeling for a certain torque, and that doesn't hurt. A gunson color tune (or whatever) isn't free either, and seems not to do the trick. Is that your solution Ed ? call me ?, than I'll be your private dynoyet ? A dynoyet is a machine, based on knowledge and experience, kind of open source from a lot of the guys who build it, and the guy behind it knows how it works. You, on the other hand, have only your experience, and a closed knowledge base. Are you pissed off ?, because some people can do without your telephone calls ? Because a dyno run will tell (me) the same or more than you can ? I gave info how I fix warped covers, I don't force anyone to do it the same way. And I don't "force" anyone to call me either. A forum is an open source, a telephone, on the other hand, is not. Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
If ya have $$$ to spare I suggest ya send it to those who can use it to dyno test their engine.
I don't need ya to give a tutorial on the dynovet as I and I'm sure others know it's function. Ya haven't seen me tell anyone "NOT TO dynovet THEIR engine. I state and feel that more times than not it's un-necessary and a waste of money. (travel time and test cost) You continue to ignore the fact that all Americans are Not Rich and this is a hobby (fun thing) for them. Call you? Surely you jest! Others call me as it's the easiest way to discuss and cure the problem they have and not spend hours wasting time when a "simple" discussion can cure that problem. <<<A forum is an open source, a telephone, on the other hand, is not.>>>> I agree with your above statement and I USE BOTH when it helps. So ya would torque a "case screw"? A Bolt or Nut for sure but a case Screw??? May I ask how ya recommend testing the steel plates in the clutch assembly of these engines?. .......lm
Do to the fact his PM to me is accusatory and brings to question my efforts to help others (you know who you are) I am sending a CC of it.
There are those of you who can reply to some of this if ya like as you have a good idea where I contribute.. ..........lm <<<<BTW that ding in the contact area doesn't go across the entire contact area and the leak can be cured with a piece of 600 grit on something flat enough drawn across it to remove the raised area of the ding and allow the complete area to contact the gasket. EASY!>>>>>>>
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