Niagra Falls of Fresh Oil From Front of Head Gasket

[LOUD MOUSE]

Tighten to 22 Ft Lbs. or more................. lm

Today I checked the gaskets beneath the head cover and found the ones w openings I had installed with the openings towards the back, so I switched them. Thanks, Ed.

I checked the head cover breather tube and found that to be clear. Thanks, Davomoto.

And Teazer, I know I installed the hollow dowels and green Honda o-rings at the head gasket.

I reinstalled the head cover to 15lbs--5 at the spark plugs-- and started the bike. Still, oil poured from the head gasket.

Any other ideas?

Additional issue that may or may not be related: The idle screws are set to 1 1/4 turns yet the motor RACES at idle and stalls whenever off 100% choke.

[teazer]

Working this backwards, oil travels up the two outer studs, so if it's pouring fresh oil, that is probably where it's coming from.

UNLESS it's coming from behind the cambox end caps. I had that problem once where the end caps stood slightly proud of the surface. they looked fine but leaked.

[Goodysnap]

Although I didnt have a guiser of oil, I did have a small area of leakage upon initail start up from this area. I accurately torqued everything to 15ft lbs w/ a calibrated wrench multiple times. I increased the torque value(wrenched em down since it was allready in the bike) and the leak stopped. This was only enough to drip on the starter occasionally . I could actually see it bubbling through the gasket itself or maybe next to it? In appears as though increasing the torque is a good idea as LM has pointed out. How many passes did you run on the nuts and to what value? Make sure the studs arnt bottomed out in the accorn nuts , Washers In place, threads clean?

[LOUD MOUSE]

I use a Clicker Torque Wrench and go around in the proper pattern 2 times.
As all the threaded parts are not new I increase to 22 LBS. rather than what was stock.
Also most folks don't have the parts Head/Cylinder/Top Case broached to flat plus not everyone gets the REAL HONDA gasket set so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Even though ya torque everything to the value they can/may/will change after several cold to hot cycles. ................lm

Although I didnt have a guiser of oil, I did have a small area of leakage upon initail start up from this area. I accurately torqued everything to 15ft lbs w/ a calibrated wrench multiple times. I increased the torque value(wrenched em down since it was allready in the bike) and the leak stopped. This was only enough to drip on the starter occasionally . I could actually see it bubbling through the gasket itself or maybe next to it? In appears as though increasing the torque is a good idea as LM has pointed out. How many passes did you run on the nuts and to what value? Make sure the studs arnt bottomed out in the accorn nuts , Washers In place, threads clean?

[305explr]

Thanks for the continued advice. I'll get on it again today.

I'll double check to make sure the acorn nuts are not bottoming out on the studs. The washers are in good shape and so are the threads, I believe. But I will check again.

No leaks from the cam ends. Primarily it leaks from the head gasket.

Can someone also post a description of the paths the oil takes inside the engine? That way I can trace its flow step by step and maybe discover something.

[305explr]

Doubled up the washers and worked up the torque to 20+. Backed out idle screws. The bike ran at proper rpm for 20 secs until I shut it down because oil was still dripping from the front corners of the head gasket just as much as before.

Am going to pull the head.

[LOUD MOUSE]

Ya will probably need to replace the "O" rings at the corner knock pins. ...........lm

Doubled up the washers and worked up the torque to 20+. Backed out idle screws. The bike ran at proper rpm for 20 secs until I shut it down because oil was still dripping from the front corners of the head gasket just as much as before.

Am going to pull the head.