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camshaft removal frustrations

greg78gs750
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Joined: Tue Apr 21, 2009 5:14 pm
Location: muskegon, mi

camshaft removal frustrations

Post by greg78gs750 » Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:05 am

hi guys,

i have one step left on disassembly of my 67 305 dream engine: getting that @!#$ camshaft out.

the lock nut came undone, no problem.
but when i tapped on the end of the locking bolt, it just never loosened itself. i did, however, manage to drive the points cam half of the camshaft out! so now, the other end of the camshaft is still attached to the cam sprocket, and i just dont see how to proceed from here. i will post some pics here in a minute. any advice would be greatly appreciated!

greg

greg78gs750
honda305.com Member
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Apr 21, 2009 5:14 pm
Location: muskegon, mi

Post by greg78gs750 » Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:19 am

here is that camshaft. you can see that the bearings have been driven out the wrong side! and the shaft is still solidly attached to the cam sprocket.
Image


here is that lock bolt i "tapped" on....ok, i did a bit more that tap, my tapping drove the bearings out! it is still not loose, and to make it even better, i might have buggered the threads a bit....anyone got a spare one of these around??
Image

now, to have a cup of coffee and ponder things.

greg

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davomoto
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Location: Marin County CA

Post by davomoto » Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:42 am

Greg, I would push the cam back into place, then back up the advance unit with a block of wood. that through bolt attaches to a wedge, and must be driven in to remove advance unit from cam. You may have to pry a bit to remove advance unit from cam once wedge is loose. Great pics, by the way!

davomoto

maia
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Post by maia » Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:16 pm

Greg, I had EXACTLY the same problem as you and tried tapping (carefully ) the end of that bolt as well as penetrating oil and no go. I got worried I was going to screw something up so took it to my trusted mechanic who used pinpoint heat around the wedge area and was finally able to free it. It seems the oil in the splines turns to glue after the years and needs thorough removal before reassembly or you won't get the cam back together all the way and then the tach and points end caps won't go on because of the protruding bearings and you'll have to take it all apart again! Trust me on this one! Apparently there are neoprene sleeves on the advance mechanism, although there weren't on mine, and they can be damaged by heat so look for those before you use heat. Good Luck.

greg78gs750
honda305.com Member
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Apr 21, 2009 5:14 pm
Location: muskegon, mi

Post by greg78gs750 » Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:28 pm

GOT IT!. man, that wedge was pretty well stuck. the main problem i had, i think, was fully groking how the whole thing went together and worked....the parts diagrams are...less than clear, in my opinion. the hardest part was drifting those bearings out...what a PITA. i HATE operations that include hammers and wooden dowels, especially around expensive precision assemblies. but i ts all out now, so all is ok. pretty sure the bearings survived unscathed, though i am considering replacing them anyway.

best way to get them off the camshafts? or do i bother?

and the next question....what is the best way to remove the carbon from the combustion chamber? my usual solvents have a tough time with it? any miracle drugs out there?

thanks again guys!

greg

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davomoto
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Location: Marin County CA

Post by davomoto » Sat Feb 13, 2010 4:18 pm

Greg, I always bead blast entire assembly, removes carbon etc. I always replace the cam bearings, cheap enough if you don't buy them from honda. I put the cam through the jaws of the vise, bearing resting on top of jaws, and use a dead blow hammer to hit cam out of bearings. here's an e-mail for a guy that sells the correct bearings for a good price.

davomoto

Wayne@MROSOS.com <Wayne@MROSOS.com>

greg78gs750
honda305.com Member
Posts: 73
Joined: Tue Apr 21, 2009 5:14 pm
Location: muskegon, mi

Post by greg78gs750 » Sat Feb 13, 2010 4:52 pm

thanks davo, i had planned on beading everything anyway, so thats good. i was going to leave the valve guides in, but i guess i should remove them for blasting? thanks for the link for the bearings

greg

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