Clutch lever very tightShiftingSpargett, Sorry the extra ball thing wasn't your problem(easy fix). How hard does your bike shift not running, just rocking it back and forth? The clutch adjuster should turn freely in its' bore when the 10mm bolt is loosened( shouldn't have to hammer it in or out) and your clutch rod is in the correct way. As far as mixing CL and CB side cases and clutch rods, I'm not positive but other than the kickstarter I think they're the same. Sometimes something really simple can baffle and frustrate the hell out of you. It took me quite a while to "fix" all the stuff the PO did to my CL. Good luck, and keep us posted......................D
Re: ShiftingHey, no worries. Thank you for clearing all that stuff up. I don't really have any experience with a "properly" running Superhawk, so it makes troubleshooting a bit hard without a point of reference to work from.
Here's the interesting thing about the clutch rod, now that I know it's facing the right direction. With the ball AND the rod installed in that position, the case can close once all the screws are tightened up, but the lever almost won't budge at all once everything's said and done. Without the ball, the lever doesn't grab whatsoever, and the shift lever is loose and unresponsive. So that tells me I'm on the right track having them both in. I guess the solution would be to try and bang the adjuster through so it sticks a little further out of the crankcase, to give the ball and rod more room to work together. Correct? So quickly, it's the tension between this ball, rod, and retracting adjuster that makes for a crisp shift lever response that doesn't require alot of force and guesswork to land the gear?
Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ This appears to be the only proper way to install the lifter thread. Dgormley mentioned the arm should be resting at a 7 o'clock position, but when threaded alternatively to allow the arm to hang down further, the piece is basically falling out. Seems like it resting in the 9 o'clock position is what it wants to do. Is this still wrong somehow?
Thank you to everyone that is helping with this! Click to view video.  I checked the part numbers for the shift rods on CB and CL77's. Same part number: 22850-259-010. Good idea though. Sounds we both got some same number on ours as far as length, yours being slightly more accurate. Thank you very much for checking. Another thing checked off the list.
Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/
Spargett,
Just for the record, and not a direct help or solution. Clean every part involved very good and check for wear. Check rod for straightness, and strange spots on the rod itself. Push the rod in the shaft, this should be going smooth. Check the parts in the sidecase for wear, also here, check for strange spots and scrapping spots. these parts should interact very smooth, if not something strange is going on, try to locate it. Try to push the rod in by hand, this should be possible, you directly engage the clutch a little by doing this, this is heavy, but smooth. Maybe it's also handy to disassemble the clutch cover to look at things directly. Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
Are you sure the shift lever isn't hitting the bottom of the footpeg when you shift? 66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing
That's what I was thinking - that gear lever looks quite near the footrests for upshifts. I've been assembling mine today and due to a bit of wear on the gear lever I have to have it quite a bit lower or I can't get second. Seems comfortable enough sat on the bike - if I see a NOS lever I'd be tempted.
Your clutch problem is odd but I think you have to start with the basics, pity I've just assembled mine or I'd measure everything up for you.
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