1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

Gunner_CAF · Post by **Gunner_CAF** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:34 pm

Scott,

Looks nice, sounds great!! Congrats, good job!

Gunner

Spargett · Post by **Spargett** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:41 am

I couldn't find your thread. Could you link me to it? I'd love to take a peek at what you're talking about.

G-Man wrote:Take a look at the speedo pictures on my CL77 restoration set. No harder than the work you've put in on the rest of the bike.

Spargett · Post by **Spargett** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:46 am

Here's a shot a friend snapped when I visited them on the bike today. As well as the side effects of a terribly difficult clutch to shift through. Not only does the lever require tons of strength to pull in, I began to have an very hard time shifting out of 1st and higher after riding for about 30 mins. I was wearing reasonably thick leather boots too.

Hoping adjusting the clutch will solve these issues as soon as I rebuild the right crankcase so I can turn the adjustment knob. Seems frozen in there right now.

eyhonda · Post by **eyhonda** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:39 am

I'm surprised you didn't go through the right side cover, given your thoroughness. Hard to shift and hard to pull the lever are two different issues. Sorry if I don't know but is the clutch cable new or just relubed? A worn clutch cable can't be revived from relubing. If the inner jacket is damaged or grooved badly by the cable, there will be lots of friction regardless of oil. The hard to shift issue is fixed by the adjustment at the right side case cover. You can adjust where the clutch releases at the beginning of the lever pull. The subsequent "grab" of the clutch near the release of the lever is also affected. You can only adjust these two points, which move at the same time. The range of the release and grab is fixed based on the lever ratio. There should be some play of the lever. If it is too tight, there is some tension on the cable and the clutch is not fully "on". When the lever is fully pulled in, the clutch should be fully "off" or released. Sounds like in your case that the clutch is still partially "on" or grabbing, making it difficult to change gears. Did you check your clutch plates? If they are stuck together, it may be part of the problem. Do you have the 5 or 6 disk version? I read that the 6 disk version is the one to upgrade to, according to the BS manuals. Anyone want to comment on that?

davomoto · Post by **davomoto** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 10:16 am

Scott, here's a few thing to check. !1 clutch cable routing, make sure there are no sharp bends, nice smooth arcs, and proper routing. 2 Make sure the aluminum cable joint is correct, fits snugly into side cover, and tha angle is correct to the lifter thread. 3 correct size ball bearing in the lifter thread. 4 correct length clutch push rod, I once had on that was 1/4 shorter, and the clutch was brutal. 5 Clutch springs, which ones are you using? The old Honda springs with the white paint on them seem to give the best feel at the lever, or new Honda spring with the 425 center code have a really light feel at the lever. The old Honda "810" racing springs are very stiff, and make the clutch pull very hard. Please let us know what ends up working for you.

davomoto

von · Post by **von** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:14 pm

Davomoto,I am haveing stiff lever problems. ball must have been lost
at some time,what size ball does it use.It has a 10mm hole in the
bottom lever,have been trying to find information in parts book.
Am sure the experts here will have info.Thanks for your valued help.
Von.

Dgormley · Post by **Dgormley** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 3:05 pm

Von, the book calls for a No.# 10(5/16) ball.........................D