CL77 Stoplight switch

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:54 pm

Hi all

I am working on re-making an original stop light switch on my CL77. I have remade the frame bracket and welded it to the frame, destroying a little more of the PO's lovely powder coat in the process. I cannot locate an original CL77 switch, which from reading several posts here, I believe uses a spring to keep the plunger extended - contrary to the operation of most other switches which use the spring to retract the button.

I have dismantled a CB77 (I think) switch by parting off the swaged end my lathe but cannot see an obvious way of reversing the operation without shorting the contacts out.

My question is - does anyone have an old, inoperative, genuine CL77 switch that I could dismantle and replicate? If my mod works the donor would get their switch returned in working order. My 'repair' will consist of a newly turned end cap which will be an interference fit over a shoulder turned on the original switch body. Should be unnoticeable to the naked eye.

Thanks

G-Man

DONZIE · Post by **DONZIE** » Wed Jun 24, 2009 9:04 pm

G-MAN you sure are going through a lot of trouble. Those switches are still out there, I can send you a like new used one for $40 if interested. May even have a couple nos ones for about $80

rustywrench · Post by **rustywrench** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 12:10 am

OR------If you are really insistant on doing the repair/mod., I have an old corroded closed switch from a 67-cl77 parts bike I could really use on my driver. I would send it to you to take you up on your offer. PM me and we can exchange info. RW

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Thu Jun 25, 2009 6:29 am

Donzie

Thanks for the offer - may take you up on the used one. Having started though, I'm really interested to see what's in the CL77 switch and see if I can replicate it. That's the fun of it for me, just seeing if you can re-make dead parts etc.

Just finished making some new fork bushes for my project in 606 bronze rather than the nasty aluminum alloy ones that were in there. The replacement fork tubes I got (cheaper than chroming and re-grinding) needed some mods as they were from a different bike.....

G

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:25 pm

RustyWrench

Got your S/L switch now and will take a look at it in the workshop next week. Have acquired a couple of good ones in the meantime - a brand new one from Japan, and a good used one off eBay. Both were relatively inexpensive, but I'm still curious to have a look inside yours and see what I can do.

Am well on the way to assembling three nice speedos out of four clunkers so having a good time at the moment......

G

rustywrench · Post by **rustywrench** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 5:17 pm

As they say somewhere, no worries, mate. Hope it works out but if for some reason you can not repair it, not to worry, I'm not out that much to send it.
BTW ----- I remember bidding on one a while back and while not paying enough attention, lost it to a higher bidder. Hmmmmmmmmmmm. Wonder who that may have been. Ride safe, RW

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Thu Jul 30, 2009 11:43 am

Rustywrench

Well - here's what I found. A completely different design from the 'pull with a spring' switch but using the same basic body with a slightly different end cap. I parted off the swaged end of the switch in my lathe and there was no spring powered exodus of parts. Corrosion had tamed all that spring power!

The spring on the plunger was completely seized and the springs for the contacts at the back end had completely disintegrated. I managed to clean up the plunger and the spring but my box of assorted springs has 'gone walkabout' so I cannot finish off the connections yet. The switch now moves smoothly in and out and the switch makes and breaks nicely.

This has been worth it for me for the education and your switch is alive again. Wins all round methinks!

I'm back in the US on 16th August so I'll bring it with me and post it to you.

Many thanks

G