LED Tail Light Conversion
From what I read in these forums, the charging system has no regulator. With no regulator it relies on a charge rate that is small and will not overcharge the battery. When the lights are on, the charge rate increases for the known load of the lights. My hunch is it's designed with a low charge rate so it doesn't overcharge the battery. Any loss in the charging systems output, like a loss of magnetism, would cause a problem.
I think the trick with moving the high/low beam switch to the middle works like this. When the light switch is turned on it raises the charge rate. Moving the high/low switch to the center turns the light out and the charging system is still putting out the higher current. This gives a higher charge to the battery. A regulator in a newer system will sense when the battery is charged and will turn off the charge. With a regulator, you can charge faster at a higher rate. Maybe Honda wanted to keep it simple and reduce the cost? My thought with the LED tail light conversion is to reduce the lighting load a little to put more charge to the battery. Gunner
I put a volt meter on the battery this week, and it looks to me like it isn't getting any charge with the engine running. I went for a highway ride today and by the time I got home the battery was low again.
I found the page on the charging system in Bill Silvers book and went to check the brown, pink and yellow wires from the generator. The brown wire was broke. This looks like a problem. At least it was an easy problem to fix. After fixing the wire and starting it up, it looks much better. I will check it out more tomorrow to make sure it's charging right. Gunner
Same thing happened to my first CB!
Charging / lighting experimentsA couple of links that some have found helpful:
http://www.honda305.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight= http://www.honda305.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=
Probably your rectifier, Gunner. Batteries, back then, were pretty basic chem-tech; nowadays, they can absorb an extra volt or two. If you've not done so already, upgrade your rec to a silicon- or Schottky-diode type. Also, as Vince wrote, check your rotor isn't stamped 'CB72 (L)' -- that's a low-flux (magnetism) type.
I think they're all stamped CB72.
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