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Keyster kits and clutch cable

Dgormley
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Posts: 405
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 12:31 am
Location: Tacoma Wa

Keyster kits and clutch cable

Post by Dgormley » Mon Jun 22, 2009 4:56 pm

OK, lm(or any one else as knowledgeable)I received my keyster #116 kits today( I ordered them prior to seeing your post about the cb#117 kits) My bike(frame#cl-1034582,engine#cl77e-1034584) was running rich throughout the rev range. Inspection showed that the floats were not set right and one was leaking(I now have new ones) Should I use every part of the kits(#130 mains#30slows) or should I use my existing #120 main &#30slow jets(my needles look fine even magnified)The timing was spot on. This is a rebuilt engine and supposedly the carbs were done as well(it sat for 5 yrs after rebuild) Also received new proper length clutch cable but mine seems to be integral with the joint piece that slides into the side-case. It looks like I'll have to cut(or de-solder/de-braze) the end to get it out of the joint piece and then cut the small opening of the the piece to get the new cable in. Have you ever seen this or did a PO make-up their own clutch cable? Thanks for any help you can render.

LOUD MOUSE
honda305.com Member
Posts: 7817
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Re: Keyster kits and clutch cable

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:11 pm

Do what ya like with the carbs.
The cables all had the threaded adjuster on the engine end so ya mush have a Goldberg set-up. ......lm

Dgormley wrote:OK, lm(or any one else as knowledgeable)I received my keyster #116 kits today( I ordered them prior to seeing your post about the cb#117 kits) My bike(frame#cl-1034582,engine#cl77e-1034584) was running rich throughout the rev range. Inspection showed that the floats were not set right and one was leaking(I now have new ones) Should I use every part of the kits(#130 mains#30slows) or should I use my existing #120 main &#30slow jets(my needles look fine even magnified)The timing was spot on. This is a rebuilt engine and supposedly the carbs were done as well(it sat for 5 yrs after rebuild) Also received new proper length clutch cable but mine seems to be integral with the joint piece that slides into the side-case. It looks like I'll have to cut(or de-solder/de-braze) the end to get it out of the joint piece and then cut the small opening of the the piece to get the new cable in. Have you ever seen this or did a PO make-up their own clutch cable? Thanks for any help you can render.

Dgormley
honda305.com Member
Posts: 405
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 12:31 am
Location: Tacoma Wa

Post by Dgormley » Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:30 pm

What I am looking for is a baseline starting point, considering some of the negative posts I've read about the keyster parts.

LOUD MOUSE
honda305.com Member
Posts: 7817
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:54 pm

Get a CB77 kit for your CL77 and I can advise ya. ....lm

Dgormley wrote:What I am looking for is a baseline starting point, considering some of the negative posts I've read about the keyster parts.

Dgormley
honda305.com Member
Posts: 405
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 12:31 am
Location: Tacoma Wa

Post by Dgormley » Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:02 pm

Thanks,I'll save these for some other project or see if retro bikes will exchange

Dgormley
honda305.com Member
Posts: 405
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 12:31 am
Location: Tacoma Wa

"CB-77 Kits"

Post by Dgormley » Fri Jun 26, 2009 6:57 pm

OK lm I got my cb-77 kits(#135 main,#42 slow) for my cl-77 today. carbs are spotlessly prepared and ready to assemble. The new slide adjust screws seem a little long to engage the spring in there furthest out(slide down) position so I'm using the stock ones. According to what I've read here I think I'll start with needle clips 2 notches from bottom and set the new floats to 22.5 mm. Sound good so far?

LOUD MOUSE
honda305.com Member
Posts: 7817
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Re: "CB-77 Kits"

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Sat Jun 27, 2009 8:14 am

Simple way to set the float.

REMOVE THE MAIN JET AND WITH THE CARB BODY UPSIDE DOWN ADJUST THE FLOAT SO AS YA LOOK ACROSS THE FLOAT BOTTOMS THEY ARE INLINE WITH THE JET HOLDER. ONLY TOOL REQUIRED IS SOMETHING TO BEND THE TANG ON THE FLOAT. ............lm
The long spring is for the slide adjuster and does need to have pressure on the screw.
The short spring is for the air screw.
Dgormley wrote:OK lm I got my cb-77 kits(#135 main,#42 slow) for my cl-77 today. carbs are spotlessly prepared and ready to assemble. The new slide adjust screws seem a little long to engage the spring in there furthest out(slide down) position so I'm using the stock ones. According to what I've read here I think I'll start with needle clips 2 notches from bottom and set the new floats to 22.5 mm. Sound good so far?

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