Cam Chain Adjuster............. condition assessment

[e3steve]

I'm sure Ed will agree that any shedding of bits of roller (due to the equation oil-contamination + heat x age = brittleness) could prove pretty serious if those bits block an oilway. Maybe I'm being overcautious.

I take your point, Ed; I just found a quote of from one of your answers of Aug 3rd:

To inspect the tensioner you need to remove the 4 bolts and pull it out. You want to see a nice round neoprene wheel rather than one which looks like a sprocket with chunks out of it. Don't worry if it's hard (old rumor) because when new they are hard.

and just to labour the point to exonerate myself for my original answer, I can feel my new tensioner & idler wheels are made of neo-rubber, but my old ones feel like bloody metal! And, as I stated earlier, I can break bits off with pliers very easily. They're shagged, I reckon.....

[LOUD MOUSE]

Only if you want them to be shagged.
Or if you have shagged them with your pliers by now.
I recon I can tear parts from most all the older ones I have but as I figure there isn't anything in the chain path which will tear chunks from it.
The only ones I've ever seen that were damaged were caused by both bolts being loose or at worst as in one case one laying on top of the oil pump filter. (meaning chunks out of them). .................lm

I'm sure Ed will agree that any shedding of bits of roller (due to the equation oil-contamination + heat x age = brittleness) could prove pretty serious if those bits block an oilway. Maybe I'm being overcautious.

I take your point, Ed; I just found a quote of from one of your answers of Aug 3rd:

To inspect the tensioner you need to remove the 4 bolts and pull it out. You want to see a nice round neoprene wheel rather than one which looks like a sprocket with chunks out of it. Don't worry if it's hard (old rumor) because when new they are hard.

and just to labour the point to exonerate myself for my original answer, I can feel my new tensioner & idler wheels are made of neo-rubber, but my old ones feel like bloody metal! And, as I stated earlier, I can break bits off with pliers very easily. They're shagged, I reckon.....

[e3steve]

Brethren, I've proposed this before in open forum, and I'll propose it again:

http://www.honda305.com/forums/viewtopi ... 5516#15516

Our bikes would possibly be wrecks without your knowlwdge, Ed; and the fact that you share that knowledge.

Humbled, but working towards a 'new' powertrain,

Steve

[LOUD MOUSE]

I've actually made a ugly looking and useless looking wheel work again.
I use a new stone wheel on my bench grinder. (one with sharp edges)
I use a towel/rag on my right hand and with the left hand I put the wheel against the turning stone and hold a small amount of pressure with the towel/rag I grind the rubber/neoprene away. I'm careful not to flat spot the wheel and I do both sides then I do the center rib. Ya must be aware that the wheel and towel/rag will get really hot so ya need to change the area of the towel/rag as soon as ya feel pain. You will be amazed how the new area is as the old outside once was. .....................lm

Brethren, I've proposed this before in open forum, and I'll propose it again:

http://www.honda305.com/forums/viewtopi ... 5516#15516

Our bikes would possibly be wrecks without your knowlwdge, Ed; and the fact that you share that knowledge.

Humbled, but working towards a 'new' powertrain,

Steve

[bbraun]

Ed; I read your procedure for grinding down the roller and it makes sense. Hard part would be to not create flat spots! I have a reasonable used roller from an early arm I could remove, grind and then install on another tensioner unit with a bad roller on it.. I have three used tensioners all with bad rollers.
I don't want to mess this up; it's for my race bike. Any thoughts?

Beth Braun

[LOUD MOUSE]

I recommend ya use a NOS one for your race engine. Do ya still need that swing arm?. ............lm

Ed; I read your procedure for grinding down the roller and it makes sense. Hard part would be to not create flat spots! I have a reasonable used roller from an early arm I could remove, grind and then install on another tensioner unit with a bad roller on it.. I have three used tensioners all with bad rollers.
I don't want to mess this up; it's for my race bike. Any thoughts?

Beth Braun

[bbraun]

Yeah; still could use the SA for the spare frame. NOS adjuster; does it mattter if I use L. model one or E.? My motor is mix 'n match so I'm not sure what I have. All components are from motors '64 and later. If all I can find is an early adjuster; will that work?
Thanks, Beth