1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I goThe cover is polishing up pretty nicely, but it sure make any scratches highly visible. Is there any way to remove the scratches without ruining the aluminum? I don't want to just wing it and cause irreversible damage. I have some JB Weld applied to "problem" areas. I'll sand these down before primering to get rid of any visible gouges or scratches in the case. You can see alot of the scratches in this photo. Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ For removing buggered up screws like this, I have had great success by using a dremel (with cut-off wheel bit) to cut a slot that will accept a large flat head screw driver. Aloha,Kent
Your points covers do not look too bad. I am using an angle girder with a 4 in flannel buffing wheel. I hold the grinder lightly in a bench vice to polish the larger pieces like this. I have the stick polishing compound. Keep working them in different directions and they will polish up well. It will get a bit hot so work gloves are a good thing to have handy. When your done, buff it off with a soft cloth.
Gunner Commutator cover placement?I took the commutator cover off to try and clean it a little better. Now I can't seem to get the thing to stay on. My question is does the bottom lip go over or under the top lip?
When I hold them together and screw the screw back in, the thing just seems to pop right back out a second after I let go. I'm a tad puzzled as to how it was all holding itself together before. Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ Here's the clutch crankcase prepped and ready to be painted in the garage. You can see the bike in the background under the plastic tarp. Here's a shot of me in action for everyone of the forum. Here I am adding a second coat of primer to the clutch crankcase cover. I'm not intending to hide my identity. I'm rather bundled up for protection from the litany of things involved in painting/restoring a motorcycle. I've written off this set of clothes as damaged already. I have to say that my respirator is one of my favorite purchases. A $40 investment is quite the bargain considering the cancer and birth defects it helps you avoid. You can see a small sliver of light illuminating the stream of paint from the garage door being cracked open. I added some JB Weld to a few minor imperfections, scratches, and gouges on the case. After applying the primer I noticed that I hadn't sanded them smoothing enough. The texture really became apparent one the primer was added. I also don't feel like I pushed the epoxy deep enough into the gouges, as a few still remain. Trying to figure out a solution to that. More primer to attempt to fill it, or adding a spot putty/sanding, then more primer? This had quite a bit of external aluminum corrosion as well as oil deposits that built up on the inside of the cover. A 48 hour soak in parts cleaner and scuff pad seemed to do the trick getting it prepped. There's a few slight imperfection in the body, but I'm hoping with another coat or two of primer they can be sanded out. These guys weren't looking so hot when I got them off the bike. They're now quickly on their way to show condition. Here is the chain guard stripped and primered. It will soon be painted black. As you'll see here, someone decided to paint it silver along the way. - - - - - - - - All parts were sandblasted with aluminum oxide media then cleaned (petroleum based parts cleaner to avoid flash rust), and prepped with a 320 grit 3M scuff pad. All parts are being primered with Dupli-Color Ceramic High Heat Engine Primer (500°). Taken from Duplicolor's site: "Both Engine Enamel and High Heat Paint formulas now contain ceramic resins for maximum heat dissipation and gloss retention. The resins also offer protection from exposure to excessive heat and automotive fluids. Developed and tested in the lab, Dupli-Color® Engine and High Heat Paints will perform to the most rigorous standards of racing and street rod enthusiasts."
Last edited by Spargett on Fri Mar 13, 2009 6:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ Has anyone ever used aluminum oxide media to sandblast their carbs? I have access to a friend's box that is already setup that media. So using something else isn't really an option for me. I was just wondering if its acceptable or not. I'll mostly be blasting the outside for cosmetic reasons and maybe the insides of the float bowls. Everything else looks good.
(See top right) Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/
chainguard color.Good on you for changing color of chain guard back to original. That'll make the purists happy. Can we presume you'll be making the tailight bracket silver and installing a "flipper" on the rear fender? Not a superhawk without the flipper IMHO. Actually your bike was called a "supersport" when it was new, "superhawk" designation came later. It may have been blue originally, most cb77s were per Silver book. Priming my frame the other day I noticed a good place to check for original paint color, up inside the frame where the steering stem goes through, can't tell if it was actually painted or just overspray, but definitely some blue paint up in there. This is assuming you've removed front fork, of course.
I'm enjoying your restoration posts, I'm at about the same place on my restoration of a very similar bike, just not keeping up with posting progress as well as you are. I did post a bunch of pix on Flickr the other day before my pro-plan expired, haven't gotten around to putting in labels and comments. Anyway, going to painter next weekend if weather cooperates, he's a friend and won't charge me extra for watching and helping. Your pix are great, particularly the one with the light from garage door catching paint spray. Intentional, right? I guess we'll see who gets done first. I'd bet on you, I'm kinda pokey, but getting excited about getting all the pieces put together. Thanks for the inspiration. Lee
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