help! 305 rebuild

[golfmanmatt]

If someone has rebuilt a 305 motor sucessfully I would like to know a few things. I know there are some reallly smart people out there. Engine has about 12k on it but I never heard it run because it was apart. (not the motor) <br /><br />1. Do I need to get a valve job done at a machine shop? Or can I live without it? Is there a problem with guides, valve seats? <br /><br />2. Is it a good idea to machine cylinders .010 over? Or can I just hone them? If there in specs<br /><br />3. Besides engine gasket kit and new piston rings, What else do I need?<br /><br />4. What would a macine shop charge about to do this? (I have no clue)<br /><br /><br />Thanks in advance this web site is great,<br /><br />Matt, 64 dream

[FLYHAVEN2001]

Why not just try it. These motors are very well built. If you would have seen the two motors I have you would not think they would run, but as ugly as they are they both run ok considering how trashed they look.

[LOUD MOUSE]

I recommend you hone and replace the rings. You should remove the valve adjusters and see if they are still domed or cupped. If cupped you may want to get new ones so you can adjust the valve clearance properly. ................

[Pigeonalley]

Matt;<br /><br />I wouldn’t tear that motor down without checking it out Fly is so right in what he said about these motors. They are built to last! I would suggest you soak the cylinders, crankcase, and head with something like Marvels Mystery Oil. I would do this before anything else, even before trying to turn the crank, My 66 had been sitting for 35 years in a barn and has run very well for the last two years. A lot wrong with it but motor is great.<br /><br />Rob

[golfmanmatt]

Thanks for the info,<br /><br /> I forgot to mention that I need to take the trans out because second gear is no more. I just didn't know if I should redo the whole thing while I had it apart. I built a motor 10 years ago but It's been a while. I am just having trouble with figuring out the cam timing from the book. It seems like the chain is a little bitch. If anyone has some digital pics of the cam I would love to see them.<br /><br /><br /> Thanks everyone.<br /><br />Matt<br />

[LOUD MOUSE]

Actually the cam timing isn't terribly difficult. Loosen the valve adjusters out to release any tension on the cams by the cam followers. Remove the cam chain tensioner. Balance the engine so the top of the head is horizontal. Put the rotor to (T) and have the cam sprocket with the DOT or Zero which ever you have 90 degrees to the top of the head and the mark on the points cam streight up at the DOT/Zero. Install the chain so the master link is split at the DOT/Zero. The flat of the sprocket will need to be horizontal/even with the top of the head. .....................<br />

[golfmanmatt]

Thanks,<br /><br /> I think I get it. I am just going to need to see it for myself.<br /><br />Matt