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Spark plug wires

Points Based Ignition | Electronic Ignition Upgrade
LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Fri Sep 05, 2008 4:53 am

The reason wire rather than carbon core must be used is the carbon destructs when you push it into the coil and also when you twist the plug cap on the other end. Wire allows the ends to penetrate and keep electrical contact which allows a complete spark ckt.
e3steve. Your way will probably work and I have my set up info in the FAQ on the left of this forum when you first access the forum. It's listed as How I Tune my engine as I recall. I do recommend Vise Grip pliers rather than a Spanner wrench because the cams will cause the crank/rotor to jump over top and make it rather difficult to check for spot on. .....................lm

e3steve wrote:Joe, Ed's getting frustrated. Ed, chill.....

Joe, the following assumes that you've gapped the valve clearances first as a matter of standard procedure:

Take a croc-clipped test lamp; if you don't have one or are, for any reason, unable to fabricate one, get a set of croc-clip jumper wires, cheap as chips from Radio Shack or any electronic hobby shop and, in this case remove your neutral light and use that with a pair of said leads (assuming it lights up!).

Static timing instructions shown herewith in the pic. I've always set the timing with the ignition switch OFF to save the poor little battery's precious capacity: clip one end of the test lamp to the starter solenoid 'hot' stud (or the battery +ve if you have the seat off) and just ground the other end to the motor to test it. If it works, clip the now-free end to the little right points' stud. When the light goes out, the points have opened.

I always take out the plugs so that there's no compression to affect the rotation's accuracy. Make certain that the advancer mechanism returns to fully retarded (acw).

Gap the points first as per the instructions attached. Time the right set first, also as per the instructions. Rotate the rotor with a spanner (wrench) always clockwise, v-e-r-y s--l--o--w--l--y 'till 'F' reaches the timing mark on the stator; move the points' backplate so that the light just goes out, lock the backplate then rotate the motor thru 360º two or 3 times. On the final rotation, check the accuracy of the test lamp's extinguishing with the 'F' mark again. If it's bang-on, move the clip to the left points' stud and follow the sheet's instructions to time-up the left side. If it's off by even a gnat's cock hair, follow the foregoing and repeat until it IS BANG-ON.

Ed, if you're chilled by now, tell me if that's how your book describes your procedure. I don't have a copy of said publication, but I worked this method out for myself when I had my first CB at 16.

Once you've done this Joe, you may now procede to setting your carbs up by Ed´s method. If you can report here that you have carried out the timing to either this method or, if it differs, to Ed's method (He knows more than I), then I'm sure that, once He's calmed down, He will impart His knowledge as regards carb setup (all assuming you don't have His book).

Off you go.....
RIDE IT DON'T HIDE IT!

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jleewebb
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Location: travis county, tx

tuneup tips

Post by jleewebb » Fri Sep 05, 2008 2:40 pm

i stumbled across the ed moore's tuneup tips by clicking a link on first page of a repair log from 1999 that i got to from the main site page, lefthand column in middle of page...i thought "i'll never find this again" and copied/pasted, saved...i can't find it on faq on left of this page...this is excellent info and should be more prominently displayed in my humble opinion. thnaks, Lee

305racer
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Location: FLORIDUH

Post by 305racer » Fri Sep 05, 2008 4:25 pm

LOUD MOUSE wrote:It's you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)(&&%()_
We give you the answers and you are stuck with a continuing question about the idle and if the plug wires may cause a problem. Forget the wires and as far as I'm concerned ya can get a bicycle and not worry as to idle or plug wires. If that's not what ya want to do then get busy and tune the points and if ya do ya may find that engine will adjust as it is designed to when the spark is at the correct time on both pistons. I ask you how many times or what does it take to get the answers into that skull on the top of your shoulders!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????. .........LM

If dudes questions are botherin you.............DONT FU@K#N ANSWER 'EM!! How hard is that to get into the stubborn skull on top of your shoulders?
georGe
Ton Up Club-Florida
AHRMA #500 Road Race
#G50 Cross Country

e3steve
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Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Fri Sep 05, 2008 4:44 pm

We all post here, I think, for mutual support and to gain knowledge from those wiser than ourselves in a particular field of expertise. A wise man learns something from everyone whose life he touches.

Besides, life's hard enough sometimes without getting kicked in the bollox for not listening the first time. And maybe even the second time too.....

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