66 CB77 Cafe Racer

byrdman76 · Post by **byrdman76** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 10:57 am

LOUD MOUSE wrote:They are always tight when new and will loosen as soon as you put a few miles on it. Adjust the tensioner now and after about 100 miles. I always replace that chain when I rebuild an engine. I hope you have the cam/crank timing correct. If it won't start easily you may want to check. .............lm

byrdman76 wrote:I ordered a new RK cam chain for my motor (94 links i believe). The thing is it was pretty tight going on - I really have no need for a tensioner at this point. Just wondering it this was a pretty normal occurrence for a new chain during a rebuild. I did remove one link and replaced it with a clip style master link. The chain path, lower crank sprocket, and lower chain guide all look correct.

Thanks,

Byrd

Hello LM,

I rotated the crank until the "T" was aligned with the pointer. Then I rotated the cam (had to overcome a little pressure from the valves begining to open) until the flat spot on the cam sprocket was level with the top of the head and the dimple on the cam sproket was straight up in line with the head and motor. I rotated the crank around a few times to make sure the readings were the same.

When adjusting the tensioner I want to rotate the crank and watch the motion of the plunger shaft until it moves forward (locking it into position at this point) correct?

All of this sound about right?

Byrd

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:34 pm

Sounds good. ...............lm

byrdman76 wrote:
LOUD MOUSE wrote:They are always tight when new and will loosen as soon as you put a few miles on it. Adjust the tensioner now and after about 100 miles. I always replace that chain when I rebuild an engine. I hope you have the cam/crank timing correct. If it won't start easily you may want to check. .............lm

byrdman76 wrote:I ordered a new RK cam chain for my motor (94 links i believe). The thing is it was pretty tight going on - I really have no need for a tensioner at this point. Just wondering it this was a pretty normal occurrence for a new chain during a rebuild. I did remove one link and replaced it with a clip style master link. The chain path, lower crank sprocket, and lower chain guide all look correct.

Thanks,

Byrd
Hello LM,

I rotated the crank until the "T" was aligned with the pointer. Then I rotated the cam (had to overcome a little pressure from the valves begining to open) until the flat spot on the cam sprocket was level with the top of the head and the dimple on the cam sproket was straight up in line with the head and motor. I rotated the crank around a few times to make sure the readings were the same.

When adjusting the tensioner I want to rotate the crank and watch the motion of the plunger shaft until it moves forward (locking it into position at this point) correct?

All of this sound about right?

Byrd

byrdman76 · Post by **byrdman76** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 11:07 pm

Any idea on the thread size of the stator magneto. I cant get it back off since I set the timing, and I need to get the starter sprocket on the crank. I have a slap hammer and if I had the thread size I could pull the unit off the crank by attaching ot to the slap hammer. I'm sure theres a special tool but I'm trying to get it off tomorrow.

Thanks,

Byrd

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 7:53 am

I use a tool made for that thread and I don't know the pitch. Sorry. .............lm

byrdman76 wrote:Any idea on the thread size of the stator magneto. I cant get it back off since I set the timing, and I need to get the starter sprocket on the crank. I have a slap hammer and if I had the thread size I could pull the unit off the crank by attaching ot to the slap hammer. I'm sure theres a special tool but I'm trying to get it off tomorrow.

Thanks,

Byrd

byrdman76 · Post by **byrdman76** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 8:23 am

Thanks anyway LM.

How exactly does the tool work - is it just a threaded rod that you can hook to a slap hammer, or does it work like claw type gear puller.

Thanks,

Byrd

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 8:27 am

It's a threaded tool with a bolt head which ya bottom out hard into the rotor and then smack the wrench and it pushes the crank shaft and pulls the rotor off. ..............lm

byrdman76 wrote:Thanks anyway LM.

How exactly does the tool work - is it just a threaded rod that you can hook to a slap hammer, or does it work like claw type gear puller.

Thanks,

Byrd

byrdman76 · Post by **byrdman76** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:04 am

LOUD MOUSE wrote:It's a threaded tool with a bolt head which ya bottom out hard into the rotor and then smack the wrench and it pushes the crank shaft and pulls the rotor off. ..............lm

byrdman76 wrote:Thanks anyway LM.

How exactly does the tool work - is it just a threaded rod that you can hook to a slap hammer, or does it work like claw type gear puller.

Thanks,

Byrd

Perfect - thats just what I was looking for.

Now lets see if we can find that bolt size...