Hello,
I need some clarification from someone regarding the carb slide needle position. I own a 1964 CL72, and have had reoccuring plug-fouling issues. I'm trying to narrrow the possible causes and think I may be running too rich. After reading through many of the postings regarding the proper position of the slide needle, I have seen contradicting answers/suggestions. Some postings say the proper position is 2 slots from the bottom, while other postings say it's 2 slots from the top. Does anyone know which one is the correct (stock) position? Also, I live above 5000 feet and was wondering if anyone has discovered carb settings which work well at this altitude? Thanks for your help - this is a great site!!
Bigdog
carb slide needleBigdog, your bike should require leraner settings for the higher altitude. You may need to drop a size on both pilot and main jets. Are you using Honda jets, or the ones that come in the aftermarket kits? The aftermarket ones tend to not be very accuately sized, especially the needles! Before any of this though, have you done Eds tuning recipie? Are the slides in the correct sides, cutouts facing to the rear? Have you tried clipping 1/4 inch of the ends of the plug wires? Hope some of this helps.
davomoto slidesThanks Davomoto.
As far as the jets, the shop that did some work on my bike did replace them with 112 (I think, but not sure what size on the others). Prior to that they were from an aftermarket kit (Keyster I think), and weren't working well. I finally found the correct slide needle setting in Bill Silver's book - he says second notch from the bottom is stock position. Slides are on correct side and correct position. After some help from a more knowledgable neighbor today, I think we may have found some other issues. It seems my right side carb needs to be taken apart and checked over once again. For some reason, it's not getting consistent fuel delivery (petcock may need cleaning too), the float isn't poisitioned correctly yet and continues to lose fuel through the overflow tube in the bottom of the bowl. He also thinks that when I had the engine rebuilt back to stock sized pistions, that the shop may not have checked to see if the cam was correctly sized. A previous owner had overbored the cylinders at some point and possibly installed a different cam. He thinks this may be the case since the ignition was so advanced in order to just keep the bike running on both cylinders. So many interrelated issues to deal with! No wonder I haven't been able to enjoy a ride much farther than my own neighborhood. Any additional ideas or advice would be much appreciated. Bigdog, the float may have a pin hole in it, take it out and shake it , you'll hear the fuel sloshing around in there, or I've even had 2 different carbs that the brass tube in the float bowl was cracked, and no matter how low I set the float, it still leaked. I finally filled the bowl with gas when it was off of carb, and it was leaking from the brass tube Other than that , I can not stress enough to follow Ed's tuning recipie, if you haven't already, and clipping a little off the plug wires. Once done with that, then start messing with the carbs. Here's a link to the tune up procedure. Follow it to the T, you'll be amazed!
http://honda305.com/superhawk/ Then click on FAQ, and how do I tune my bike davomoto carbsThanks for the advice again Davomoto.
I plan to follow Ed's recipe, but thought I should try to eliminate some of the other variables first that seem to be causing the right carb to run so poorly. Perhaps following the recipe will get me closer to a solution. I did snip off some of the plug wire. That plug is getting good spark. When the engine is running, you can pull off the right side plug wire and the engine continues to run, but when it's replaced and the left side wire is removed, the engine dies. For some reason, fuel from the petcock to the carb seems to not be flowing consistently. It's as if there's not enough vaccuum to pull it to the carb. When fuel is flowing steadily, I can obviously then adjust the idle and air/fuel screws, and the engine runs like a bat outa hell! Unfortunately that lasts for a short time, then the fuel to the carb stops flowing (at idle) and it starts sputtering once again. The points plate being advanced all the way seems strange to me still. The little marks to line it up are way off. When it's moved back to stock position, the engine won't even start. Maybe that can be resolved after following Ed's recipe. I will check the floats for pinholes as well. Sorry if my explanation sounds convoluted - I'm no engine mechanic, for sure! Thanks again for your help! Bigdog By the way, after reading Ed's recipe once again, I'm confused about some of his terminology. What are the "slide adjuster screws"? I understand where the idle and air/fuel screws are, but what are slide adjuster screws and where are they located? I don't see them listed as such in any of Bill Silver's book schematics. Thanks. Thanks davomoto. I kinda figured that, but thought I 'd better ask.
Unfortunately, I've tried everything I can think of, but could only go so far into Ed's recipe. It seems my timing has an issue. I think when the engine was rebuilt, the cam wasn't placed correctly, so I can't set the crank on F and match it to the cam mark pointing down - no matter how many revolutions of the crank. Thus I cannot get the test light to light up at the correct point, and so cannot get the points to open and close when they should. Perhaps this is one reason my right carb continues to foul, and the right cylinder eventually shuts down. It's getting beyond my capability and will probably have to take it back in to the shop (anyone know of a shop knowledgable in these bikes in the Denver area?). Thanks for your help anyway Davomoto! Bigdog
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