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Rotor Removal Question

LOUD MOUSE
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Posts: 7817
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:45 am

Not all the axles will work.
The rotors in all the CB/CL72/77 engines have the CB72 or the CB72 (L) rotor. ...........lm
e3steve wrote:Can't help with the puller bit, but it's great gleaning such valuable info on the forum, like using the axle as a puller/drift. Just wanted to say that my (UK) '64 CB77 motor has a CB72 rotor too! And it's thanks to lm that I know it's a '64 motor.

Steve

Inty
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Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 10:21 pm
Location: Indianapolis

Post by Inty » Sun Mar 16, 2008 9:19 am

I noticed the CB72 label on my rotor yesterday. Glad to read that it's nothing unusual.

Mike Mullins
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Posts: 247
Joined: Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:24 pm
Location: Demotte IN

rotor removal

Post by Mike Mullins » Thu Mar 20, 2008 10:04 pm

I posted the same question early November, and then found the answer. ( The post is listed under "rotor removal", and I think the date is Nov 2 or thereabouts. You need a 16mm bolt with a 1.5 mm. thread pitch. Needs to be about 1-1/2 in long ( about 38 mm. more or less. ) I found that this size is not normally stocked anywhere. I got mine at Sanders Indiana Hardware in Valparaiso, IN. They are a fastener wholesaler, and I went to grade school and high school with all the Sanders kids. I could not find ANY other bolt on my CB 77 that would work for pulling the rotor.
Mike Mullins (mikeyrx)
Demotte IN

User avatar
davomoto
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Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:36 pm
Location: Marin County CA

Post by davomoto » Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:37 pm

I have the Honda puller / bolt. It is 16mm x 1.5 thread . Motion Pro sells one for $9.90. Here's a link to the tool.

davomoto

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0027

britman
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Posts: 175
Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:23 pm
Location: Virginia

My 2 cents worth

Post by britman » Tue Apr 29, 2008 5:34 pm

I too am experiencing the pleasure of rotor removal. Neither axle will fit the threads, I have tried my three finger universal puller using the rotor bolt as a base, it bent. I tried a 10 mm forged socket against the crank end, but the darn thing won't budge. So far I only have a bent rotor bolt and haven't damaged anything. I just ordered the Honda puller/bolt from Motion Pro. Thanks davomoto for the link. (I looked all over my town today for a 16 mm bolt with fine pitch, but none to be had.) The seal will have to wait. I guess with old age your wisdom and patience increases along with the size of your ears and nose hair. Just thought I would post in case anybody else experiences " ROTOR FUN 101. " I would also like to thank everyone on this site who has contributed great info. Every time I get stuck, there usually a thread to be found with solutions. Keep them coming guys, there is still a long way to go on my rebuild.

LOUD MOUSE
honda305.com Member
Posts: 7817
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Re: My 2 cents worth

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:43 pm

Any other bolt you may have with the same or close length will work even if it doesn't have the center drilled. ..................lm
britman wrote:I too am experiencing the pleasure of rotor removal. Neither axle will fit the threads, I have tried my three finger universal puller using the rotor bolt as a base, it bent. I tried a 10 mm forged socket against the crank end, but the darn thing won't budge. So far I only have a bent rotor bolt and haven't damaged anything. I just ordered the Honda puller/bolt from Motion Pro. Thanks davomoto for the link. (I looked all over my town today for a 16 mm bolt with fine pitch, but none to be had.) The seal will have to wait. I guess with old age your wisdom and patience increases along with the size of your ears and nose hair. Just thought I would post in case anybody else experiences " ROTOR FUN 101. " I would also like to thank everyone on this site who has contributed great info. Every time I get stuck, there usually a thread to be found with solutions. Keep them coming guys, there is still a long way to go on my rebuild.

e3steve
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Location: Mallorca, Spain & Warsash, UK

Post by e3steve » Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:41 am

The Gurus are going to fall apart laughing now, because they are lucky enough to have the proper tools!
The actual thread is PG9, which is an electrical thread used in cable glands and entries. I made a puller in the end (as Ed at Western Hills Honda didn't bother replying to my request for availability of a puller!) using a plated brass PG9 gland (with the sealing parts removed), an M8 x 80 machine screw -- although a 50mm should suffice, an M8 plain nut with the peaks ground off and an M5 stainless steel screw with 1 x M5 and 2 x M6 washers. Better to use a cap-head (Allen socket-head) rather than the type in my pics!

Method:
Take the skintop cap off the gland, insert the 80mm screw and run the nut on a bit so that it ends up inside the gland ass'y. Screw the cap back back onto the inverted gland body (the thread is shorter on the mounting end, so use the skintop end to insert into the rotor).
Place the M5 & M6 washers on the M5 screw and insert same into the crankshaft's M8 threaded centre so that the larger washers seat against the crank end; 2 or 3 washers will reduce any 'cupping'
Screw the gland body into the rotor and bottom-out the thread to ensure maximum load-spread
Wind the M8 screw in against the M5 head as tight as possible using a socket or spaniard.... sorry, spanner, whilst holding the rotor by hand
Give the screw-head a sharp tap with a heavy hammer and the rotor should just POP off the taper
NOTE: Don't whelt the crap out of the bloody screw head enough to damage it -- a sharp, assertive tap should suffice. If it doesn't budge, then hold the rotor and tighten the screw some more, repeating the process. I actually tightened mine after stopping the rotor moving by holding an inserted 3/8"-drive socket extension in one of the magnet spacings, but I wouldn't countenance this manoeuver for fear of someone damaging their rotor irrepairably.

If this fails then your rotor's either corroded or beyond this inexpensive method; buy a puller!

Regards,

Steve
Attachments
Assembled & ready.jpg
Order of assembly.jpg
'Puller' parts.jpg
Last edited by e3steve on Wed Aug 27, 2008 4:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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