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Trust JB Weld or not???

jsmith1107
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Trust JB Weld or not???

Post by jsmith1107 » Sat Mar 16, 2013 1:18 pm

OK, had a crack on the case, just put JB Weld on it. The part that was cracked actually was loose and I think could come out but I just put some JB Weld over it and pressed it in pretty good, let it dry and it seems solid. Should I trust this though or buy a new case? If I do, I still don't know how it works with the engine number being on a new case?
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cadman
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Post by cadman » Sat Mar 16, 2013 5:49 pm

I have had fairly good luck with JB Weld provided the surface was clean and roughed up with coarse sandpaper. I usually grind a small channel around the crack - about 1/16" to 1/8" deep and 1/8" wide before applying the JB.

markstertt
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Post by markstertt » Tue Mar 19, 2013 7:26 pm

I've used Alumiweld for similar repairs where an epoxy might not have the strength or may have temperature issues. Alumiweld is like a brazing rod used with a MAP gas propane type unit, the standard gas bottle doesn't generate enough heat to melt the rod. This is not welding but more like brazing. The part is heated to the point where the rod will melt when pushed into the heated metal, you don't put the rod into the flame. It feels like a melting crayon as you apply it. The rod has a high zinc content which has an affinity to attach itself to anything else with a zinc component such as aluminum castings, pot metal carb bodies etc. The resultant material is actually harder then most pieces I've repaired, easy to drill and tap but when you file it to final shape you realize how hard it is, threads well...I'm sure it's easy to find on the internet, I have in the past...Mark

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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Wed Mar 20, 2013 3:05 am

I've used a product called Lumiweld in the UK. I have repaired aluminum engine parts including reattaching fins, It works very well but the parts have to be very clean. It is good to pre-heat larger parts so that you aren't trying to heat the whole part with the torch.

http://www.frost.co.uk/lumiweld-kits.html

Here's a bit of my handiwork.

Image
Oilway 4 by graham.curtis, on Flickr


Image
Oilway 5 by graham.curtis, on Flickr


Image
Oilway 6 by graham.curtis, on Flickr



Take care!

G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F

conbs
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Aluminum repair

Post by conbs » Wed Mar 20, 2013 10:30 am

Graham,

That is some pretty handy work there, buddy. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and ingenuity.

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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:42 pm

Combs

Thanks for the kind words. In order to do that I drilled out the oil way blanking plugs and inserted a stainless rod so that the gallery would stay clear. The rod pulled out afterwards.

G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F

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Snakeoil
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Post by Snakeoil » Thu Apr 04, 2013 7:58 pm

That is a nice repair. SS rod was a clever trick, too.

I think that any of these fixes will work well as long as we are not talking about a highly stressed area of the part being repaired.

I've seen the alumiweld sold under various names,at different stores, including Sears. I have a few sticks I've played with. Seems to hold well. Never use it for an actual repair.

Regards,
Rob

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