those pesky oil leaks

[mike horvath]

Well, after replacing the oil seals on the right side including the stator which wasn't too scary, I still noticed oil dripping out of the right case after good riding. Running the engine with the side cover off reveals oil weeping out from the upper and lower crank case joint right between the kick spindle and the drive gear shaft. I suppose there is only one remedy here huh? Do I really have to separate the cases to reseal the halves? TELL ME IT AIN'T SO! But...I got time (just not all at once!), and I got liquid gasket. What I need more of is patience! Any tricks? Steve, Dave, Ed? Anyone..anyone...?
Mike

[e3steve]

Sorry Mike. It is so. I went the same route as you with the seals, even making a new clutch lifter rod during the process -- the original was scored by the lip of the little seal and still leaked-- but have the same leaky situation as you. And exactly the same place! I even cleaned the whole area with alcohol and applied a flexible sealer (Sikaflex 291). Drip, drip drip.........

Perhaps I'm not quite as disappointed as you, as I have to tear it down anyway (but I'm having fun on it again right now) to replace the kick shaft, pawl & spring. And the little ends. And a bearing or two (all of them, as a precaution). And shim the tranny. The leak is just embarrassing when a crowd gathers.

I sympathise, mate!

There's no substitute for doing the job right, in the long run, but you could try my process yourself, using the same goop or possibly Three Bond non-acidic sealer (the acrylic type):

• Remove r/h exhaust, side cover, field coil ass'y, rotor, final drive chain & sprocket
  Degrease surfaces thoroughly and jet wash
  Wash again, this time with surgical 96% alcohol
  Remove the starter sprocket, keeper & chain
  Work along the joint and around the seals' outer circuferences with cotton buds (Q-Tips) dipped in acetone
  Apply a heavy, continuous bead of your selected flexible sealer from one end to the other and encircling the seals' outer circumferences; make the bead at least 10-12mm (⅜"-½") wide where possible
  Allow to sit for 24hrs before attempting to reassemble or run the motor

Now, it didn't work for me, but I didn't do the acetone clean-up stage. I would clean the whole area more thoroughly if I was attempting it again; remember the alloy is 40+-year-old casting technology, is very porous and has absorbed a lot of crap in its life thus far.

Either sealer, mentioned here, is relatively easy to remove during a rebuild.

G'luck!

[mike horvath]

Thanks for the return Steve. Yeah, I suppose I was looking for an easy way out. But...nothing like a routine partial tear down. Never thought I'd be going down this road this soon. Guess I gotta get me those Silvers repair manuals now 'eh!? Although I have to admit, that external seal attempt you made sure sounds inviting.
Thanks again.
Mike

[e3steve]

The whole process of disassembly, clean-up and application shouldn't cost you any more than 2 hours of patience. Then 24 further hours of leaving it alone, and 30-40 mins of putting it all back together. I'd not bother running it whilst partially disassembled; it'll either work or not! Just ride & observe.

Footnote: I refitted my exhaust and ran it up to temp on the stand; that was when I spotted the light bubbling from the facings' joint and around the final drive & kick shaft seals.

[mike horvath]

Well Steve,
After doing a simple application similar to yours a few days ago, I took that thing out for an hour of riding today. A little hard on the throttle, not too much, but to my amazement, no leak. Time will tell if that gasket sealer will hold up. Sure was nice though to park it and not have to clean up the rim, tire, center stand, rear fork and garage floor.
Have fun,
Mike

[e3steve]

Nice one, Mike! As you say: time will tell.

[mike horvath]

so what time is it in Spain?
11:40pm here, and I gotta work tomorrow!
Good night friends,
Mike